The Ground Up Podcast
Stories From the Steep | Climbing conversations with local legends and unsung crushers from hometown crags around the country. During the golden era of rock climbing, going ground up was as much a tactic as it was a lifestyle. A commitment to embracing the unknown and earning the next challenge, this mentality was the catalyst for a generation of bold climbers and route developers to establish now classic crags and expand climbing access into our own backyards. The Ground Up Podcast is a celebration of this mantra, the legends it left behind and the adventures it continues to inspire for local...
47 - Professor of 5.14: Bill Ramsey
Bill Ramsey has been part of some of the most important chapters in American climbing history. Growing up in central Oregon, he cut his teeth at Smith Rock in the late 1970s alongside childhood friend Alan Watts, back when the crag was still a quiet collection of cracks and sport climbing was barely a concept. As the two pushed their climbing forward, Bill was right there for the early days of a movement that would fundamentally change the sport. From climbing some of Smith's hardest routes at the time to witnessing the first wave of sport climbing development, he...
46 - Crazy 8's: The Legend of BJ Gruber
BJ Gruber didnât grow up climbingâhe stumbled into the sport by accident while working as an actor in New York. But in just a few years, heâs become a Gunks completionist, a multiâpitch sufferfest enthusiast, and an endurance athlete with a taste for long days, big mileage, and typeâtwo fun. In this episode, BJ walks us through how that unlikely background set him up for one of the wildest objectives ever attempted at Horseshoe Hell: climbing every single 5.8 at the ranch during the 24âhour event.
We dive into the months of preparation that made it...
45 - Comp Climbing Chronicles with Joe Goodacre
Joe Goodacre grew up in North Boulder and started climbing at just 4 years old through Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutouâs Team ABCâone of the strongest youth programs in the country. In this episode, Joe shares what it was like to come up through competitive climbing, from early topârope comps to winning youth nationals and becoming a National and Pan-American champion.
We get into the hyperâtechnical world of speed climbingâmicroâbeta, headâtoâhead racing, and this niche sport's evolution. As well as Joeâs time spent climbing over the water both outdoors and in the exhilarating Psico...
GIVEAWAY - Misty Mountain Harness
Here it is folks, the moment you've been waiting for! We're here live announcing the winners of the Misty Mountain Harness giveaway event that's been ongoing for the last couple of weeks. Big shoutout to Misty Mountain for providing the harnesses and supporting the show. We've got two winners from the Instagram contest as well as one winner from Patreon.
We'll be in touch with the winners with all the details on how to claim your harness. Thanks to everyone that participated!
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A huge thank you to our sponsor, Misty Mountain, for...
44 - Cataloging the Classics with Steph Abegg
Steph Abegg has spent the better part of two decades exploring, climbing, and meticulously documenting some of the biggest and most adventurous routes across western North America. From her early days scrambling and mountaineering in the North Cascades to long days on remote multi-pitch routes, Steph has built a reputation not only for her ability to move quickly through big terrain, but for the incredibly detailed trip reports, route overlays, photos, and beta she creates along the way.
In this episode, we trace Stephâs climbing journey from growing up in a family of mountaineers to discovering ro...
43 Preview - Gear Giveaway + Cirque of the Towers Traverse
In this episode, the Ground Up crew flips the script by announcing it's first ever GEAR GIVEAWAY before Robert interviews Ari about his recent exploits in the Winds tackling the Cirque of the Towers Traverse with Mike Palmer, who you may remember from Episode 1 of the podcast.
Located in Wyoming, the Wind River Range is roughly 100 miles long, boasts some of the highest Rocky Mountain peaks outside of Colorado and provides a spectacular arena for several monster linkups, including the iconic Cirque of the Towers Traverse, a roughly 20 mile alpine traverse across the Cirque's 11 major peaks including...
42 - A Noob's Guide to Horseshoe Hell (Rebroadcast from The Struggle Climbing Show)
What happens when two Horseshoe Hell veterans sit down with the podcast legends Ryan Devlin & Chris Kalous and try to explain what they've gotten themselves into?
For this special rebroadcast, we joined Ryan on the Struggle Climbing Show and his Hell partner Chris (host of The Enormocast) for a crash course in all things 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hellâthe legendary Arkansas climbing event where teams spend 12, 24, or even 36 hours climbing as many routes as they can.
We break down the basics of Hell, from how the event works and how to qualify, to the biggest mi...
41 - Heart Stopping Highballs with Eric Zschiesche
Eric Zschiesche is one of the true pioneers of American bouldering. From establishing some of the Piedmont's most iconic boulder problems and traditional routes to developing classics at Devil's Lake, Eric's influence stretches far beyond the guidebooks. Long before crash pads and social media, he was climbing bold highballs, pushing into 5.13âoften barefootâand building a legacy that continues to inspire generations of climbers.
In this episode, we trace Eric's journey from scrambling around the cliffs of North Carolina's Moore's Wall as a teenager to dirtbagging across the American West in pursuit of Yosemite's biggest walls. He shar...
40 - The Great Snake Dike Debate
Snake Dike has become one of the most talked-about routes in climbing after a controversial retro-bolting effortâand the equally controversial decision to chop those bolts. So we brought friend of the pod, Trevor Jones, on to debate one of the biggest questions in climbing today: should classic routes ever be changed?
The three of us come at the topic from very different perspectives as we discuss retro-bolting ethics, preserving climbing history, adventure, risk, and who gets the final say when it comes to an iconic route.
We also tackle another climbing ethics question: if yo...
39 - The Diamond FKT with John Alcorn
John Alcorn has quietly become one of Colorado's strongest and speediest alpine climbers. Best known for his record-setting ascent of the Casual Route on Longs Peak's Diamond, John's journey wasn't built on chasing speed from the beginningâit started with a humbling 24-hour ascent that sparked an obsession with climbing more efficiently.
In this episode, we follow that progression from growing up in rural Tennessee to discovering Colorado's alpine climbing scene, falling in love with Longs Peak, and spending nearly a decade refining every aspect of movement in the mountains. John shares how trail running, simul-climbing, and co...
38: Optimizing Training with Vasya Vorotnikov
Vasya Vorotnikov is a seasoned veteran of the climbing world, with over 30 years of climbing experience and a deep background as a movement coach and route setter. Known for demolishing massive personal goalsâlike ticking off over ten 5.14s, over a hundred 5.13s, and 365 5.12s or harder in a single yearâVasya approaches climbing from a refreshing perspective: that technique, creative thinking, and mental capacity trump raw physical strength almost every time.
In this episode, we talk about adapting your training to fit your lifestyle, contrasting Ariâs abundant outdoor access in Denver with Robâs gym-dependent, unpredic...
37: The Good, The Bad, & David Sharratt
David Sharratt is one of the East Coast's great underground crushers. From bold headpoints at Moon Rocks, pushing the boundaries of free climbing at Looking Glass, to the legendary Good, Bad, and Ugly at Ghost Town, David has spent decades establishing and repeating some of North Carolina and the Southeast's hardest and most serious routes.
In this episode, we talk about the aesthetic pull of lines that seem barely possibleâroutes with just enough holds, just enough gear, and just enough mystery to demand attention. David shares how hard sport climbing and bold trad became the foundation fo...
36: Mademoiselle Fissure - Laura Pineau
Fresh off the world premiere of Queen Swing, return guest Laura Pineau is back on the podcastâthis time stepping away from the Yosemite speed climbing stories to dive deeper into the experiences and climbing that shaped her.
We talk about Lauraâs unconventional introduction to climbing through deep water soloing along the sea cliffs of southern France, how those early days falling into the Mediterranean built both her love for climbing and her tolerance for exposure, and the path that eventually led her toward trad and crack climbing. Laura shares the steep learning curve of transitioning from...
35: You Asked, We Rambled
We're switching things up a bit this week with our first ever listener questions driven episode!
Instead of our usual format interviewing guests, itâs just us this timeâriffing on climbing films, hot topics, and however many listener submitted questions we can get through. We start by getting into some recent films weâve been watching (and working on), swap thoughts on storytelling in climbing media, and dive into a pretty deep debate on gradingâwhat it means, where it falls short, and what a âperfectâ system might actually look like.
We also tackle a few listen...
34: Arno Ilgner - The Rock Warrior
Todayâs guest is none other than mentalâtraining expert and longtime firstâascensionist Arno Ilgner. While most climbers know Arno for The Rock Warriorâs Wayâhis influential book and program on focus, risk, and commitmentâhis 50âyear climbing career is just as compelling, and ultimately what led him into the world of mental training.
In today's episode, we cover Arno's introduction to climbing in the in the limestone bluffs of Tennessee, climbing with a rack of pitons & hip belays. From there, he went on to establish bold first ascents across the country, including major contributions in Fremont Can...
33: Big Wall Chronicles with Wilson Cutbirth
Wilson Cutbirth is an expedition climber at heartâdriven by ground-up style, remote objectives, and first ascents on some of the wildest big walls out there. With a deep background in rigging and rope systems, his approach blends technical precision with a willingness to embrace uncertainty in truly committing terrain.
In this episode, we trace Wilsonâs unconventional path into climbingâfrom sharing a single pair of shoes with friends in rural Arizona to putting up bold first ascents on remote big walls across the world, including an expedition to Mount Roraima with Leo Houlding. Along the way, w...
32: Andrew Leich - Rattlesnake Redemption
In this episode, we sit down with West Virginia climber and prolific developer Andrew Leich to trace a climbing journey shaped by obsession, grit, and an almost unthinkable comeback.
From his early days at the New River Gorge to developing out of necessity in the Cheat Canyon, Andrew built his reputation on bold ascentsâincluding an onsight* of Moonlight Buttress. Along the way, he also shares the surprisingly simple, yet effective, fingerboard routine that helped him build elite endurance.
But everything changed after a near-fatal rattlesnake bite left Andrew with severe nerve damage, forcing him to...
31: Resurrecting Ghost Town with Mike Reardon & the CCC
For decades, Ghost Town stood as one of North Carolinaâs most legendaryâand inaccessibleâcliffs. First climbed in the 1970s and closed for nearly 20 years, its towering crack systems and dramatic position above Hickory Nut Gorge became the stuff of local lore.
In this episode, we sit down with the Carolina Climbers Coalition Executive Director, Mike Reardon, to unpack the long journey to bring Ghost Town back to life. Mike shares the behind-the-scenes story of land access, conservation, and the effort to reopen this historic crag to the climbing community.
We explore Ghost Townâs rich h...
30: Kathy Karlo - No Man's Land
In this episode, we sit down with Kathy Karlo to trace an unconventional climbing trajectoryâone that started on ice in Ouray and the steep quartzite horizontals of the Gunks, but has led to a life filled with endless single-pitch perfection on the Sandstone of the Southeast.
Kathy reflects on how traveling to places like Indian Creek, the Black Canyon, and Vedauwoo pushed her into uncomfortable styles that made her a stronger, more creative climberâand why, despite all that wandering, sheâs continually drawn back to the Southeast to pursue some of the most aesthetic trad lines...
29: Welcome to Wonderland - New Age Development with Tal Wanish
In this episode, we sit down with Tal Wanish to talk about what it really means to build a climbing area from the ground up.
Tal walks us through his evolution from a college climbing class at Clemson to becoming one of the most active route developers in Coloradoâs South Platte, and eventually discovering what is now known as Wonderlandâa massive, wild granite zone west of Denver that has grown into a true local playground. With over two dozen named formations and hundreds of routes, Wonderland is a case study in what happens when curiosity, pers...
The Ground Up Podcast State of the Union
Weâre back!
After a short hiatus, we're kicking things off with a State of the Union for The Ground Up Podcast. In this episode, we catch up on whatâs been happening behind the scenesâfrom moves and life changes to why it felt like the right time to pause, reset, and level up the show.
We also lay out whatâs coming next: a return to a consistent bi-weekly release schedule, a stacked lineup of upcoming guests, and new ways to engage with the Ground Up community. Most importantly, we officially announce the launch o...
Ground Up 28: Record-Setting Do's and Don'ts of Horseshoe Hell with Nadya Vorotnikova & Sean Vallefuoco
Fresh off a record-breaking run at 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell, Nadya and Sean sit down with Ari and Rob to share how they approached the legendary 24-hour climbing marathon. From Seanâs disastrous first year of Oreos, Gatorade, and brand-new shoes to the meticulous (and sometimes improvised) strategy that helped Nadya smash the womenâs points record, we dig into what works, what doesnât, and why the right partner makes or breaks your experience. They also talk about the upcoming rule changes for the 20th anniversary of âHell,â what excites them about a clean slate, and how community and stoke...
Ground Up 27: 24HHH Veterans Leather & Lace
Most would call climbing for 24 hours straight crazy â doing it 20 years in a row is downright ludicrous. In the nearly two-decade history of 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell, only one team has competed every single year: Dick and Natalie Dower, better known as Leather and Lace. Over time, theyâve become true legends of the 24-hour climbing scene at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch.
In part one of this yearâs Horseshoe Hell miniseries, we sit down with Dick and Natalie to trace the history of the event. From hand-written scorecards and early strategy missteps to record-breaking ascents and the evolut...
Ground Up 26: Dream Destinations with the Climbing Backpackers
What happens when an arborist and a dog walker swipe right and end up traveling the world on a shoestring budget? In this episode, Nettie and Dave, better known as the Climbing Backpackers, share their incredible journey climbing and dirtbagging across the globe. Hear how a ruptured Achilles and a spur-of-the-moment decision sparked two years of non-stop adventure, what itâs like living on ÂŁ10 a day, and the wild experiences that come with climbing in places like India, Thailand, Laos, Turkey and beyond. From top-rope guiding in Badami to navigating crumbling crags and tuk-tuk rides, this conversation is full of...
Ground Up 25: 3,000 Feet of Psyche with Ethan Morf
Making history in Yosemite Valley is no easy feat these days, especially if you can count the number of years you've been climbing on one hand. But on May 15th, at just 20 years old, Ethan Morf became the youngest person to free climb El Capitan in a day with an 18 hour ascent of Freerider.
In this episode, Ethan recounts his rapid rise from Squamish gumby to Yosemite crusher â a journey fueled by a seemingly endless supply of psyche, long days on granite, and countless hours on the MoonBoard. We talk about learning to climb and place gear vi...
Ground Up 24: The Power of Partnerships with Eddie Begoon
In this episode, we sit down with Southeast legend Eddie Begoonâlifelong climber, route developer, and storyteller with deep roots in the Shenandoah Valley and the golden age of Southeast climbing. From barnyard bouldering on a Virginia dairy farm to bold first ascents at Seneca Rocks, Looking Glass, and the New River Gorge, Eddie shares the story of a climbing life shaped by humble beginnings, a bare-bones rack of gear, and the power of partnership. Along the way, we hear about country store belays, legendary leads, and the friendships that defined a generation of ground-up development.
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...Ground Up 23: Breaking Barriers in the Valley with Kate Kelleghan and Laura Pineau
Few endurance challenges rival the infamous Yosemite Triple Crown â a mega link-up of three iconic big walls in Yosemite National Park: the Nose on El Capitan, the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome, and the South Face of Mount Watkins.
Since its first completion in 2001, no women had managed to complete the feat...
That is, until Kate Kelleghan and Laura Pineau showed up.
With impressive climbing rĂ©sumĂ©s built in very different corners of the sport, Laura and Kate connected via a simple Instagram DM â both with their sights set on the Triple...
Ground Up 22: Five Decades of Climbing with Coach Eric Hörst
In today's episode, we sit down with legendary climber, author, and coach Eric Hörstâan East Coast pioneer whose nearly five decades of climbing and route development have left an indelible mark on American climbing culture. Eric takes us back to the 1970s Gunks scene, where he cut his teeth on steep trad climbs before importing sport climbing ethics to the New River Gorge, helping transform it into the world-class crag it is today.
We rewind the tape back to the âgolden ageâ of development at the New, where Eric, alongside notable first ascensionists, Rick Thompson, Doug Re...
Ground Up 21: High Country Highlights with Sam Dospoy
In this episode, we sit down with Boone local Sam Dospoyâwoodworker, van builder, and climber deeply rooted in North Carolinaâs High Country. Sam shares how a two year stint dirtbagging in a minivan sparked both his love of climbing and his custom van build business, Stand Up Vans. We dig into his early days of bouldering over couch cushions at Blowing Rock, the tight-knit and low-beta climbing scene in Boone, and his progression into bold trad climbing and first ascents.
Sam reflects on mentorship, the local ethics around development, and the draw of uncovering untouched rock...
Ground Up 20: Capturing Climbing with Photographer Drew Mercer
Boone, North Carolina is where photographer Drew Mercer first discovered his passion for rock climbing, so itâs no surprise that his new coffee table book, In Season, is a love letter to the High Country. A modern champion of Southeastern climbing, Drew uses his lens to share the story of days spent at some of his favorite local, and arguably underappreciated, crags like Ship Rock, Grandmother Boulders, and The Dump.
We also cover Drew's dirtbag days in the Buttermilks and Hueco Tanks, an epic on the Linville Crusher, and ultimately what makes Boone the kind of pl...
Ground Up 19: Level Up Your Trad Climbing with Dana Taylor
Training for trad climbing isnât something most climbers think aboutâbut Project Direct coach Dana Taylor is here to change that.
Originally from Chicago, Dana spent years sport climbing at the Red River Gorge before catching the trad bug on a trip to Wadi Rum. In this episode, she takes us through her journey into the world of limit trad climbing, what inspired her to pursue coaching, and how sheâs helping clients take their trad climbing to the next level.
We also dive into some epic multi-pitch adventures at Mazama, wild mountain bike descen...
Ground Up 18: The Sandstone School of Rock with Professor Joel Brady
Whether you know him as the Vampire Professor, the Banjo Man, or the founding president of the Southwestern Pennsylvania Climbers Coalition (SWPACC), you know that Joel Brady has the undeniable ability to crush nails hard rock climbs. Coming to us live from the Keystone State, Joel recalls his early days competing against legends like Chris Sharma, Dave Graham, and Tommy Caldwell in some of America's first major climbing competitions. We then get into some of his milestone contributions to the sport that have come from more than two decades of establishing and sending some of the Southeastâs hardest ro...
Ground Up 17: The Need for Speed with Joe Kennedy
Speed climbing is the ultimate culmination of dozens, if not hundreds, of hours spent dialing in beta, trimming the rack, and pushing the body to move as quickly up the wall as possible. Few do it better than today's guest, Joe Kennedy, a speed climbing phenom who holds the record for the fastest bridge to bridge ascent of the legendary Naked Edge in Eldorado Canyon. Heâs also known for blazing through the Flatirons, either solo or with Satan's Minions, and holds the fastest known times on "Roachâs Top 10" and the grueling "33 Spring Classics." Joe takes us through wher...
Ground Up 16: Becoming a Quadfather - Tanner Wanish
Finding first ascents and new potential link-ups in Yosemite Valley is a rare opportunity these days, especially when they're as monumental as the QUAD! In a mind-blowingly short one year between his first NIAD (Nose in a Day), Tanner Wanish and his partner Michael Vail not only broke the speed record on the infamous Yosemite Triple Crown, but also established the Quad, a mega link-up of El Capitan, Half Dome, Mount Watkins and Washington Column. As a former Navy Seal, Tanner is no stranger to pushing himself to the limit and he's quickly making a career out of maximizing...
Ground Up 15: Raging in El Salto with Karly Rager
While most climbers gravitate to El Potrero Chico when visiting Nuevo LeĂłn, Karly Rager has spent the past five winter seasons learning the dark arts of kneebars in El Salto's tufa filled playgrounds. Fresh off her all female team's First Free Ascent of Guerreras on La Gloria, Karly reflects on what it took to achieve their FFA in the demanding Mexican alpine desert, her early years as a climber in Boulder, Colorado, and lessons learned from training hundreds of other climbers through her coaching business (@ProjectDirect_Coaching). This episode is particularly special since Robert was actually part of t...
Ground Up 14: Legends From the Steep with Doug Reed
If you've pulled onto the perfect Nuttall Sandstone of the New River Gorge, odds are you've climbed a Doug Reed route. Boasting one of the most impressive list's of first ascents in Southeastern, and perhaps national climbing history, Doug was a true pioneer of pushing the standards for both difficult and high-quality climbing during the 80's and 90's. A true legend of the steep, Doug takes us through his journey putting up an almost unfathomable 600+ combined routes at the NRG, Little River Canyon and all over North Carolina. He also helps us relive some of his most outrageous stories...
Ground Up 13: The Granite Guru Zack Mintz
The Western North Carolina climbing scene has been experiencing a recent flurry of hard ascents and Zack Mintz is certainly someone who's been at the heart of it all. A true guru of granite, Zack joins the Ground Up to cover everything from his rapid progression as a climbing guide, how "learning to fail" has helped him succeed, and his passion for capturing other climbers through the lens of his camera. He also walks us through his process for the first ascent of Invisible Brailleways, an appropriately named 5.13 slab route at the North End of Looking Glass with beta...
Ground Up 12: Zero to 5.13 in 18 Months with Armand La Douceur
Hailing from the great state of Georgia, our guest for this episode is the Southeast's latest climbing phenom, Armand La Douceur. It was only 18 months ago that Armand first tied into a rope, but he's since taken the climbing scene by storm, putting down many of the areas hardest test-pieces, including Western North Carolina's most iconic 5.13 multipitch, the Glass Menagerie at Looking Glass Rock. The boys dive into his wild introduction to climbing following Groover, a 900 ft 5.8 on Laurel Knob, recent burns on Wet Lycra Nightmare, lessons learned from various mentors that have allowed him to progress so quickly...
Ground Up 11: Global Climbing Impact with Mario Stanley
If you tuned into the HBO reality series, The Climb, with Chris Sharma, Megan Martin and Jason Momoa, you probably recognize our next guest, Mario Stanley. A Texas based climber, Mario's impact on the local scene as a coach, guide, route developer and fellow podcast host can't be overstated. A wide ranging episode, we cover outdoor access in the Lone Star State, annual trips to Last Chance Canyon, deep water soloing in Mallorca and Mario's recent transition into documentary filmmaking. Mario then walks us through the mission of his latest film, Climb Malawi, and the impact he and guest...
Ground Up 10: Erica Lineberry aka Cragmama
You may have heard of Dad Strength before, but Erica Lineberry is making sure that you know all about Mom Strength. Better known as Cragmama, Erica is one of the Southeast's elite weekend warriors and has sent well over 100 routes of 5.12 or higher, all after having her first child! Whether she's pulling through roofs at Hidden Valley, jug bashing at the Red River Gorge or working her way down Endless Wall, it's always a family affair with Cragmama and her blog details exactly how she and her husband have kept sending while raising the next generation of young crushers...