Hairspring

Erik & Max may not have been invited to vote, but that won’t stop this episode. This week’s show discusses first the new Datograph, of course, but then goes through the year’s nominees and their finer points. Before the Balance Cocks, the year’s decisive awards show, Erik & Max play by GPHG rules and decide how to actually award the prizes. 

Links Mentioned:

Datograph on Bracelet is Back:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-lange-datograph-diamonds

GPHG Nominees:

This week, the gentlemen behind Petermann Bédat join the show. We cover their early history, what it’s like working at Lange while not speaking German, challenges faced in starting their own brand, philosophy of their manufacture, and how they’re planning for the future. In addition, we discuss both Gaël and Bédat as collectors and lovers of watches and collectors—including their ultimate 3 watch collections and an Only Wrist. A huge thanks to Gaël Petermann & Florian Bédat for joining!

Links Mentioned:

Lange Young Watchmaker...

This is the story of two watchmakers, Daniels & Smith, who kept British independent watchmaking alive prior to the phrase independent existing. This chronicle encompasses Daniel’s story from Army service until pocket watches, fascination with Breguet, the Clutton & automotive connection, selling the Co-Axial, his pocket watches, wristwatches, the story of his first meeting with Smith, Smith’s near-decade attempt to become his pupil, Smith’s history, and a complete catalogue of Smith’s wristwatches so far. Of course, this includes many meandering and many offshoots, as you’ve grown to expect. We hope you enjoy. 

Links Men...

This week, the tables have turned. Erik & Max polled you, the audience, for your opinions. Together, we find out what future classics you believe are being made today, how your views and actions in collecting have evolved over the last decade, independents that are your capturing interest, how you track or record your collection, how you’d theoretically build a 300k collection, and your deepest regrets around giving into hype or missing it entirely. This was a fascinating insight into our little group’s deep, sometimes controversial views on collecting. 

Links Mentioned:

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This week Erik & Max are honored to be joined by founder of 37signals, thoughtful collector, and original thinker Jason Fried. While this episode briefly touches on Jason’s path as a collector, it’s spends more time on the philosophy of a meaningful business, knowing what doesn’t matter in design, what mades watches special to love, what defines craft, which watches were the least impressive in the metal, how the ability to sell permanence is linked to looking after your product, and so much more. 

Links Mentioned:

The MIH:

This is the story of Danish watchmaking’s most storied name, a deep-dive chronicle to help collectors understand the very nuanced and convoluted history of Urban Jürgensen. This includes relevant backstory on Urban himself, a deep dive on Baumberger, Pratt, and the watches they made together—plus a look at what’s happening today under the Rosenfields and Venla with Kari Voutilainen. This episode focuses on wristwatches with particular attention given to the rise of the Pratt-Baumberger era, noting each reference in detail with points for collectors to come away from having learned something new: like how to take ov...

Now 100 episodes in, this episode covers some reflections and lessons learned. This is all ahead of a full-sized Q&A with questions ranging from a two-watch 100k collection, time traveling to give yourself advice, market direction, non-indie brands carrying the torch for watchmaking, and many other topics. Plus, a fantastic Only Wrist for a linebacker.

Links Mentioned:

Total Unbiased FP Journe Market Update:

https://www.phillips.com/article/what-now-for-f-p-journe-at-auction-phillips-new-york-june-2026

Rolex + Tudor:

https://hairspring.com...

From things that came before the 2215 Chronometer to 43040s and repeaters, this episode covers all the quirky Vacheron Constantins that normally aren’t discussed—including a semantics argument of what is and isn’t a Cornes de Vache. If the more alternative side of VC has ever called to you, here is a broad overview of some areas that may be worth attention. 

Links Mentioned:

Keith Mitchell TW:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/keith-mitchell-talking-watches

333:

https...

Over the last five years, independent watchmaking has blossomed. This week, Erik & Max make an introduction to some names that have begun in recent years and are off to a promising start. Conversations include the basic framework and some thoughts on Clegeur, Pierre, Phimphrachanh, Birchall, Claeys, the Bernhards, Hazemann & Monnin, Lass, FaH, Mineroci, and even Bonniksen. 

Cleguer:

https://cleguer.com/en-gb

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cleguer-debuts-the-inspiration-one-with-a-proprietary-innate-escapement

https://watchesbysjx.com/2026/05/cleguer-inspiration-one-review.html

https://revolutionwatch.c...

While prior episodes have covered your hot takes, this week’s discussion sees Erik & Max dive into a few controversial views of their own. From undisclosed ebauches in independent work today to silicon going widespread, or moonphase accuracy across to 6538s, there’s a lot to unpack here. 

University of Utah Hot on Journe?:

https://shorturl.at/cSCXN

6538 at Sotheby’s:

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2026/important-watches/reference-5510-big-crown-submariner-a-stainless

Petermann Bédat 2941:

This month’s Q&A went all over the map. Erik & Max answer the Ferrari Luce equivalent from the Holy Trinity, market updates, if Cartier hype has passed, the one watch collection, and the greatest neo-vintage values today. 

Links Mentioned: 

Arkansas:

https://crystalbridges.org

6105G:

https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/6105g-001

5170:

https://hairspring.com/products/chronograph-black-dial-white-gold

5172:

Part 2 of Episode 66 has finally come to pass. This episode chronicles the notable history of A. Lange & Söhne from acquisition by Richemont and Günter Blümlein’s passing in 2001 until the present. This episode targets key folks involved, notable successes and releases, stories/lore often told, and basics of leadership. We hope this episode brings some learning and a few fun facts along the way. 

Links Mentioned: 

https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/manufacture/news-and-events/gunter-blumlein

The Richemont Umbrella:

https...

Erik & Max pick apart the three big sales happening this spring, to help give a framework for analyzing collectors' behavior, see what’s changing in the market, and have some fun. Then, the game is on as five lots are each picked with a bet value to be achieved estimated (this was recorded May 5) ahead of time—and an over/under from the opposing host. Plus, an Only Wrist for the 90s lovers. 

Links Mentioned: 

The Three Sales in Question:

https://www.phillips.com/auctio...

Watch & Wonders has come and past, but what of this year’s releases might be enduring? And what, if anything, was a complete mistake? This is the Winners & Blunders of 2026, where for every pick in the top and worst category, Erik & Max also include an alternate vintage pick to consider. 

Links Mentioned: 

Winners:

Streamliner 34:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/h-moser-and-cie-introduces-the-streamliner-two-hands-in-28mm-and-34mm

Streamliner QP:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intr...

Collectors love a good fun fact, unknown history, or unexpected trivia. This episode is full of all of that. From co-axial Nautilus and a Rolex QP to Houdini and Carl Jung, it’s all here. We guarantee, regardless of just how educated you are, there’ll be a fact in here you won’t have known prior. A huge thank you to all of you, the audience, for contributing to this knowledge base. Plus, and Only Wrist for a train conductor. 

Links Mentioned: 

Early Daniels Escapements in Normal Watches:

A longstanding craft which has graced some of the greatest wristwatches made, this episode studies the basics of enamel dials and their application in wristwatches. From historical roots until work being performed today, Erik & Max cover the main techniques of Grand Feu, Cloisonné, Champlevé, Flinqué, and engraved enamel. Nuanced, examples, techniques, and the background needed to begin conversations about the topic of enamel dials are all in here. 

Links Mentioned: 

Peter Henlein Nuremberg Eggs:

https://quillandpad.com/2014/12/15/the-worlds-oldest-watch-a-peter-henlein-mystery-from-1505-solved/

Jean...

This week Erik & Max are thrilled to be joined by legend of independent watchmaking Kari Voutilainen. We explore the early days of branching out on his own, what makes him excited in watchmaking, the challenges of being independent, why big brands don’t innovate, and of course how things are going reviving Urban Jürgensen. It was an honor and delight to capture Mr. Voutilainen’s thoughts on watchmaking this point in his career, which we hope you enjoy. 

Links Mentioned: 

Voutilainen’s Early Story:

https...

Erik & Max time travel to 2016 to attempt to spend various budgets this week. It’s retroactive bidding, with the best 10k, 50k, and 200k picks all included. From cloissoné Polerouters to Patek bracelets and 30k Resonance, this one was a blast. Plus and Only Wrist that’s relevant if you drive motorcycles for UberEats. It’s worth opening all the tabs linked for this exercise. 

Links Mentioned: 

https://www.watchpro.com/billions-wiped-off-the-value-of-breitling/

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/with-rolex-and-cartier-in-another-league-a-deep-dive-on-whos-making-gains-and-whos-feeling-pain-in-t

10K and Under...

Erik & Max venture into the side of the AP back catalogue far too often forgotten and overlooked: non-RO vintage. From the Clover to the 1533 or Star Wheel Repeaters and restomod Cartier, the depth of value that exists in AP’s posterity is immense. If you’ve ever wondered what the first Tuscan ref is, who A l’Emeraude is, or what a Disco Volante has in common with today’s independents—listen in. Plus an only wrist for a Patek AD. 

Links Mentioned: 

5516:

https://www.hodinkee...

The title says it all here, with one twist. First, Erik & Max guess each other’s ideal 3 watch collections—a reverse grail collection built for each other. Then it’s the actual current 3-watch grail collection, no holds barred. Many watches are discussed, few make the grade. You all asked, many times, here we are. Plus, an Only Wrist for a Houston electrician. 

Links Mentioned: 

404.032:

https://hairspring.com/products/404-032-double-split

6105:

https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auct...

It is finally time to dissect and opine on the 3940. Erik & Max break down series with some nuances you may not expect. This includes hallmarks, Singer vs Stern dials, Series breakdown, and thoughts on what truly matters here. And that’s just the first half of the episode, with the second dedicated to covering the vast majority of all major references since and what to pay attention to. It’s the second half Patek Philippe of the ‘pure’ QP bloodline this week. 

Links Mentioned: 

Zeitwerk Press Photo:

...

Are regulator dials ugly? Are Lange a credible threat to Patek’s repeaters? What’s the ideal Bond Villain watch? Why do so many watch professionals seem like they don’t even like watches? Erik & Max put out a call to you for your hot takes and controversial opinions. Some were lukewarm, but many were truly controversial and made for excellent discussion. If hot takes aren’t to your taste, this episode concludes with resolutions in watches for the new year. 

Links Mentioned:

Roman Numerals Discussed:

http...

The year of 2026 is upon us, but it’s worth pausing to look at some of the great and atrocious things which sold. This episode covers a state of the market through a review of the entire year at auctions, noting specific examples. Erik & Max discuss watches that they wish they’d had the funds to buy, opportunities missed, problem watches/things they’d stay away from, value buys, unreasonable results, and our wildcards. Plus, an Only Wrist for the most significant chronographs of all time. 

Links Mentioned:

Watches We Wish...

Yes, it’s year end. And the only awards show that anyone cares about is back in action. It’s the Balance Cocks second annual outing this week; this show will cover the most beautiful and ugliest watches of the year, the greatest new calibre, the strongest value, the watch which will lose you the most money after buying it, and far more. Then we have the big ones, our favorites and the ‘Absolute Cock-Up of the Year’ Grand Prizes. Plus, an Only Wrist of an oil rig worker who likes dressing to the nines. 

Links M...

Erik & Max are back to answer your wide-ranging questions in the seventh installment of what is becoming a cornerstone of the podcast. Questions range from a new ‘holy trinity’ we’d select, what neo-vintage references collectors should be paying attention to yet aren’t, Langes on a budget, best Blümlein IWCs, our favored Cartier shapes, and far more. 

Links Mentioned:

Hajime Asaoka:

https://www.phillips.com/detail/hajime-asaoka/194815

Atelier Du Chronometrie:

https://www.hodinkee.c...

A monumental occasion, this episode covers a complete chronology of the Patek Philippe ‘pure’ perpetual calendar. Arguably, the QP was the complication that built the Patek Philippe name more than any other through the mid-century. Yet, the main bloodline of QP has many nuances that aren’t often covered. This episode highlights all the main references you might expect and their significant points such as 1526, 2497/2438, 3448, and 3450. But if you’ve ever wondered about the 96 QP, 1527, 1591, 3449, or any of the oddball piece uniques, they’re all in here too. We couldn’t wait for leap year to release this, hopefully you’ll forgi...

Master comedian and legendary podcaster Tom Segura joins Erik & Max for a hilarious conversation on his love of watches and collecting. Tom’s enthusiasm ranges from FP Journe to 6263 Daytona, with more than his fair share of AD experiences on tour. Today we ask who was the most obnoxious sales staff he’s encountered yet, where his love of Lange came from, views on collecting philosophy, and what watches should be paired with various vehicles Tom has loved or hated. Plus, the 3 guest questions you all tune in for. This was a blast to record, a special thanks to Tom...

This is a simple concept, but what’s recent that holds a fair shot of standing the test of time? And what are the absolute dogs that should be avoided? Both categories are addressed no holds barred, a fairly random smattering of watches that may be future classics, and just as many that, well, we’d best avoid. And yes, we’re probably wrong. 

Links Mentioned:

Berneron:

https://hairspring.com/collections/exclusives/products/mirage-38-sienna-yellow-gold

Limited Odysseus Refs:

<...

We all know Paul Newman’s Paul Newman, but what was the second most valuable watch at that auction? This week, Erik & Max ask that question, as well as investigating some of the other incredible Rolexes which have hammered that aren’t super-famous, but are super-intriguing. From nicknames like ‘The Sock’ to a Sub-Day-Date hybrid or false McQueen provenance, this week is all those small stories that are easily missed. 

Links Mentioned:

Petermann Bedat:

https://www.acollectedman.com/products/petermann-bedat-1825-rose-gold

Pete...

This is the story of how an unlikely ruffian from Marseille came to be regarded as the genius watchmaker of a generation. This week, Erik & Max tell the story of François-Paul Journe from expulsion to working with Asprey and sketching on napkins. While the story dominates two-thirds of the episode, the final third is dedicated to the watches themselves including a framework for how to separate generations of the brass pieces. This episode is an introduction to one of the most polarizing, eccentric, and relevant watchmakers working today (even if some of this history may have been embellished o...

Erik & Max return to answer your queries in a a wide-ranging episode that hits on everything from 2 watch modern Rolex collection picks, vintage value under 20K, roasting the 5159, figuring out the best QPs ever, the best watches ever sold that you never saw, how to manage databases, and valuing extremely rare watches. Plus and Only Wrist for a SEAL turned doctor. 

Links Mentioned:

Modern 2 Watch Rolex Collection:

Max:

https://www.europeanwatch.com/blog/rolex-datejust-126234-palm-motif-dial-review

This week, Erik X Max talk the worst collaborations in watches. While a unique idea in 2010, collaborations seem more common than a single brand’s own work these days. While some are brilliant, this episode is a discourse in where it can go wrong and where it’s heading. There are some you might not expect in here, as well as the obvious, all for their own uniquely unfortunate reasons. Plus, one of the more challenging Only Wrists faced. 

Links Mentioned:

Harry Winston FP Journe Opus 1:

...

Accomplished singer, songwriter, and producer James Blake joins the podcast for truly legendary discussion of watches, music, their intersection, and a veritable feast of unrelated topics. Conversation includes the role of atrophy in attraction to vintage, what watches he’d gift various well-known musicians, how ‘perfect’ finishing may be too perfect today, the watch musician Dave gifted him, and far more.

Links Mentioned:

15500ST:

https://www.audemarspiguet.com/com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak/15500ST.OO.1220ST.01.html

Berneron:

Have you ever what a Musketeer Dial is? Does Millerighe sound more like a sneeze than a pusher to you? What does PPDRSD stand for, are cherry Daytonas a real thing, and is PCG the same as Cornino? This and all the other terms you see frequently in vintage sports Rolex described as quickly as possible in this week’s episode. It’s that simple. 

Links Mentioned:

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/exclusive-the-pinnacle-of-holy-grails-a-patek-1518-in-steel-is-coming-to-auction-in-november

Daytona:

Lemon:

...

This week is more automotive than most, as Erik & Max are joined by the esteemed automotive journalist Henry Catchpole. Henry is an immensely talented story-teller and also happens to adore watches. This episode spans Henry’s path as an enthusiast, a family Vacheron, Enicar, The Bugatti Tourbillon, if cars are having their own Quartz Crisis now, the car/watch enthusiast link, the 6541 motorsport connection, and what Michael Fassbender should really be wearing. This one was an honor and a delight to record, all thanks to Henry. 

Links Mentioned:

Henry’s Fir...

What’s after neo-vintage yet before contemporary watches? Quite a lot as it turns out. Erik & Max set themselves the challenge of uncovering some of the great references that might go over looked, as they predate watch media as we know it. And it’s not all high-flying independents. Picks range from multiple examples under 10K (some under 5K, even) all the way to, yes, the crazy ones. Regardless, and all across the spectrum, there are some magnificent watches from this time that perhaps are still a touch overlooked. Plus, an only wrist for a marine biologist in a salm...

Erik & Max build two-watch collections twice with a generous budget, once with independents and once with large brands. This, in order to help crystalize the strengths and weaknesses of each type of watch. Conversation ranges from the Dubail to the Vingt-8 with everything in-between. Plus, an Only Wrist for a gentleman running construction in Austin, looking for a watch to give his son. 

Links Mentioned:

Independent-ish Collecting:

Closed Back:

https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/closed-caseback-small-mig-101-002-a-lange-sohne-lange-1

Some will tell you that Audemars Piguet have become the Royal Oak company. But why is this sole model so damn successful? How did one watch come to invent and subsequently take over a market segment? What are the models worth paying attention to and how are collections structured? This is the story of the Royal Oak, from two years before the 5402’s release straight through to ceramics and RD#2.

Links Mentioned:

AP Chronicle Early Years Story and Stats:

https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com/en/ar...

Erik & Max return to answer your queries in a a wide-ranging episode that hits on everything from guilty pleasures to asking if the independent space is too crowded. Plus, what is the best QP ever made? Why isn’t shaped Patek popular? What’s the next hot indie? This and much more, plus a great question from Max’s mom. 

Links Mentioned:

Lange Error:

https://youtu.be/HGlz937qkuw?si=y_-wOUQp2lH8SDtD&t=4206

Guilty Pleasures:

The inimitable mastermind behind Unpolished returns to join Erik & Max; this episode is a wide-ranging discussion with Mr. Tony Traina himself. It covers three large segments of discussion. First, what’s been grinding Tony’s gears lately (and some of Erik’s as well). Then a collection-building exercise of two lifelong two-watch collections: one collection at 20K and one at 200K. Finally what are some trends that we’re not paying enough attention to right now? 

Links Mentioned:

Lange on a Nato:

https://www.instagram...