The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast

A round table with Benn and Katie again this week. We had to talk about Ondra a bit because he's been busy! Then the main goal was to fill out a D&D style alignment chart we stole from Reddit. We had a laugh with it and I tried to herd the cats as best I could but it all got a bit messy!

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Fan favourite Allison is back on the pod this week! Thankfully Allison had a phenomenal run of form recently, culminating in some big sends, namely The Mantra, a three move V14 on tiny crimps, and The Expanse, a V15 boulder that had previously only been climbed by some of the tallest men in the sport! Climbing either of these boulders would be a good enough excuse to ask Allison to come back on the pod but to do both of them in just a few days is a feat that very few people could manage! We chat about that...

Keenan is back! A pod favourite for sure and someone Aidan has spent a lot of time with over the past few years. Keenan has been putting up more incredible first ascents, which we chat a bit about, namely Dreadnought but he also came equipped with a few of his own talking points! I've recently learnt that some more professional podcasts actually ask this of their guests the cheaters! Whilst we were chatting there were some large trees being felled in the valley, these relatively humdrum goings on were vastly more interesting than the rubbish I was coming out...

We got stood up! Some say we should send links and reminders to our guests but we've never bothered before, and now it's cost us! So Aidan and I just chatted happily amongst ourselves. Largely about the Pro Climbing League which is a new competition format that recently happened in London. Could this be the new more exciting competition format we've been hoping for? If not could it be something the organisational previously known as 'IFSC' and now WCWCWC or something, could pick up a few pointers from?

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A bit of a messy round table for you this week. A few decent talking points hidden away amidst a mess of off-topic rambles and general merriment. I hope you get something out of it, they're definitely fun to record! Looking forward to seeing how AI segments the 'chapters'...

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Wow, what form Zach Galla is in! Recent sends of Hypnotised Minds, Devilution, Return of the Sleepwalker and Shaolin, could be the most impressive run of ascents ever recorded. We really wanted to try and discern what could have led to such form, is it a mentality thing or improvements in strength? What is the optimum level of confidence for repeat sending? Knowing that rich veins of form are often ended with injury when do you take your foot off the gas? Can you stop to enjoy it? All these questions and more are at least partially answered or...

We're back! Just the reunited home team this week. Shockingly we hadn't spoken that much for a month so we had quite a lot to catch up on. Aidan is hard focussed on his 6 degrees project but has also had a couple of trips, and Sam continues his expansionary quest for global domination by having another child and building another board. We chat about outdoor climbing comps and weigh up whether they're worthwhile, and we couldn't not have a chat about Honnold's full metal solo at the behest of Netflix. 

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So, I never intended to make this episode. When I did the episode with independent gym owners I felt like I should probably reach out to a CEO of a chain gym for comment. I should have, but I didn't. I was planning to leave that thread as it was, but Ged from the Hangar got in touch to say he'd listened to it and would be up for having a chat to offer his thoughts from the other side of the partition. I originally thought it would probably just be a little bonus add on to the independents...

It's the 'Sam can't record anything this week' special! Where one of the knights of our round tables Katie hosts an ask me anything with questions from our Patroons (Patreon members). If you want to be one of the people throwing questions out then you too can join our fantastic community of Patroons via our Patreon page. Lots of insights into the inner workings of Aidan's (and occasionally Katie's) brains, hope you enjoy!

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Hello all, I come to you with a different offering this week. There's no Aidan this week, it's just me chatting to three different independent climbing gym owners in London. Sounds a bit niche but I was hoping to get a bit of a conversation going and I thought that there would be good parallels to other areas of the climbing world. 

What do you reckon? Please leave your thoughts in the comments. 

Thanks for giving it a go!

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The ever popular Jim Pope is back on the pod for his third time this week. A chap said to me he only knows Jim as a board climbing aficionado, which is quite funny really when in reality he is the hardest climber to put in a box that we know of. It's impossible to tell what he'll do next but he tends to do it pretty well and it's fun to talk to him about it afterwards. 

If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://w...

A round table episode with the A team, so Katie Lamb and Benn Wheeler joining Aidan and Sam to ramble about some climbing or vaguely climbing related topics. Does climbing need grades? Why are we so obsessed with maintaining the grading scale when other sports (that are similar but generally considered to be cooler) like skateboarding or surfing don't need them. Is climbing being underserved by those of us in the online space watering down our controversial opinions to avoid standing on the wrong side of a stand off with a mob?  Then it devolves into a therapy session, c...

Happy New Year! We're back with a bang with a return guest that we haven't had on since episode 6 of this podcast! Back then Will was a comp climber taking a break from competing and showing huge promise on rock. Since then... Well, he's done all the things and now his hat is in the ring when people talk about the strongest climbers of all time! We chatted to him about a bunch of the rocks he's climbed as well as his mindset and hopes for the upcoming year! 

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Merry Christmas/seasons greetings (delete as appropriate) dear listeners! Every now and then I like to take a break from making a climbing podcast and just try and wind up my mate Aidan for a bit. The first half of this episode is just that. I will be playing the part of Father Christmas/Santa (delete as appropriate) and I'll be challenging Aidan to help me save Christmas, unfortunately I don't do the voice as I discovered that I couldn't do the voice when practicing in the mirror. After we get bored of that we move on to do...

Does anyone read these? 

Right, we've been having too much of a good time these past few episodes and lots of good rambles have fallen away into wails of (useless) mirth. Time for us to actually have a chat and remember that this is a job and we can stop pretending to like each other for five minutes and actually get some of this climbing stuff straightened out. 

Sam makes up some words and uses them with conviction and Aidan honestly seemed surprised we were recording. 

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Niall Grimes, he's been around for a long while, he's part of the furniture here, but who is he? Where did he come from? What's he about? You may or may not find the answers to those questions somewhere within but he'll probably make you laugh at least once (no refunds). It was a great laugh having him on, he says what he thinks and he's got some great stories to tell. 

We referenced an excellent interview Niall conducted with Taylor Parsons on his podcast (JamCrack), it had been taken down but I have heard it's been p...

A classic round table episode with Katie Lamb and Benn Wheeler! We chat about some of the incredible climbing news that has happened in recent weeks, some of the internet storm in a teacup drama that has been born from it and we throw out a few hot takes. Keep listening to the end if you want to enjoy the story of when Sam got pelted with farm produce by some London youths. 

If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to help us keep it going, please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.c...

We were psyched to have Dayan on the pod with us this week, the British climbing team are at something of a high water mark at the minute and Dayan is right in the thick of it. Lots of chats about the competition scene and the many challenges it presents the climbers that are fighting to keep up with the level that increases year on year! Also, can these climbers who have only ever climbed inside go straight out and send 9A boulders? 

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Just Aidan and me this week trying out a new format! Basically, it was recorded over two days so we could get Aidan's thoughts and opinions about trying a last day ascent of Mount Doom 9A, and then the second part was recorded a few days later to see how it went, and more importantly how his mindset might have changed before and after. We also ramble about Tutankhamun and the difficulties of running a pub these days, those two aren't connected. 

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We love chatting to Aussies, we've always had fun when given the opportunity and this week is no different. Ben is a highly requested crusher who's been heavily involved in the Australian climbing scene for quite some time now. We chat about the current state of the access issues, his first ascents, his battle with Action Directe and his famous line when topping out Groove Train (if you haven't seen it stick it into YouTube) a fun chat!

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This week we have fan favourites Katie Lamb and Benn Wheeler back for some round table chat as well as playing a game described as 'quite brilliant' by it's own devisor. Has climbing got a Burden of Dreams problem? Did Aidan flash Bugeleisen? What would it mean if someone flashes a problem they have a 3D scanned replica for? All great questions as well as a game where Aidan, Katie and Benn have to bid for frankenclimber traits, powerups and vices in an attempt to build the most successful climber. 

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We reckon we've asked Eliot onto this podcast about 6 times since we started, clearly we aren't very good at taking the hint but hey, persistence won the day in the end. Eliot is quite a quiet voice on the British scene but he has been one of the most prolific first ascensionists and has repeated many hard classics at home and abroad. It was fun to finally sit down and have a chat with the elusive Welshman! 

If you enjoy Eliot's dulcet tones then check out his own podcast called 'Stoneline'. 

If you like this po...

We're playing a game! Choices choices for Aidan and Sam is playing an incredibly convincing Morpheus, offering Aidan a selection of choices, all Aidan must do is choose!

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Mina is back on the podcast after quite some time! Since last time Mina has written a book all about nutrition for climbing! So we have a pretty long ramble about parenthood, whether you can maximise fun and achievement simultaneous and y'know general fear of death... All the fun stuff! I think we finally got to talking about the book after about an hour if you want to skip to that! 

https://blackwells.co.uk/bookshop/product/Eat-to-Climb-by-Mina-Leslie-Wujastyk/9781839812729

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Home team episode, we sort of forgot it was recorded at times so gets a bit rambly but we did cover a few big topics, how do you pronounce Nike? How would Jerry cope with the Ace being campused by a chap in a protective boot? As well as some hypotheticals and life updates. Very much a recorded chat really. 

If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to help us to keep it going then please consider checking out our Patreon page! https://www.patreon.com/c/u70353823 

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Stefano, one of the world's best sport climbers has rapidly been becoming one of the world's best boulderers so we thought now was the perfect time to get him on our podcast! We chatted about a bunch of things, his processes with Excalibur, Silence and Burden of Dreams, the situation with hold fabrication in sport climbing, how the future of sport climbing rests in collaboration and his bouldering journey. 

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Joining us this week is one of the last (if not the last) board climbing specialist still on the world cup circuit! Adam is one of the strongest people around on a board and he's really started to show what he can do on rock, but he's fighting the siren call of the stone for a little longer because he's still competing internationally. We talk about his trip to Magic Wood, his four hour riverbed sesh with his parents, his slightly palm sweaty time climbing the Process in Bishop and many things competition as well. 

If you'd l...

Charles definitely provides a different flavour for this week's episode. A man who truly goes his own way, he climbs without shoes, mostly without any gear and usually without crash pads. He climbs, he downclimbs, he jumps and sometimes lives a cave. On top of all these brilliant eccentricities he's also one of the strongest climbers in the world. Naturally we had a lot of questions for him and we really loved his completely novel take on the sport. Hope you enjoy!

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The other side of the coin from episode 150, it's another route setting deep dive pod, but this time with renowned setters Zoe and Ros, who were able to offer some different perspectives that four dudes can produce by themselves, who knew right? 

Just a bunch of chats about route setting, some of it is specific to women in route setting and some of it is just general route setting rambling. 

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We had an absolute blast chatting to Benn this week. He's not just ebullient and funny he's also a heck of a climber. He makes YouTube content with his older brother and one of the best climbers in the world, Noah. It's a funny position to be in, to be one of the best climbers around but to have a brother who is even better so we did talk about that a bit but we talked about a range of stuff, most of which I forget now, but it was good I remember that! 

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This week we answered a bunch of questions from our Patroon community on discord as well as rambled about a few extra bits and pieces as they came to mind. Pub chat stuff really, objective grading scales, when does gear become cheating, flash ethics, Aidan getting abused by trad climbers you know all the classics. 

If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/u70353823

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We like chatting to Ethan, he's got some great perspectives and he thinks deeply about his climbing. The base of the chat was around two recent segments in Ethan's climbing, one trip to Bishop where Ethan didn't really climb anything and a few weeks back in Squamish where Ethan climbed some incredibly hard things. It was interesting to hear how the former experience seems to have left a more lasting and positive impact on Ethan despite the lack of hard sends. We also chat about a bunch of other deep and meaningful things like why Sam turned up to...

One of the biggest names in climbing and a strong contender for being the best climber of all time, Adam Ondra joins us this week! Have you heard of him? We chat about a whole bunch of things:-

Rock manipulation, Onsighting vs Flashing, Lexicon E11, goal-setting, competitions, The Olympics, B.I.G etc etc.... 

If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us, please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823

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Back by popular demand, Katie Lamb joins us again this week for some round table discussions about pro climbing, legacy athletes and if we could be motivated to climb with no chance of any further progression. We also play a game at the end which is a fantasy climbing auction devised by Sam which turned out to be a pretty good laugh. 

If you're enjoying the podcast and don't want to see it wither and die like one of my houseplants then please consider checking out our Patreon page! https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823

S...

We had another wad on the pod this week, Nicolai Uznik is a rare breed of climber who has somehow managed to climb the highest grades outdoors whilst also achieving some great results in the comps. We talk about that juggling act, what it's like to be a competitor in the current era of competitions, competition setting, Maltatal, and his experience with a candidate for the best looking 9As, Mount Doom. Surely Mount Doom would have scored very highly on our critically acclaimed (a couple of people said it was alright) 9A tier list if it hadn't been climbed...

Yeah, it's one of those episodes this week. Nothing to learn and no great insights into the world of climbing, but we at least entertained ourselves trying to devise a new Modern Pentathlon after a chat about climbing films. Say what you want about the Careless Talk Climbing Podcast but at least they're making themselves laugh. 

We'll be back soon with more climbing specific content (probably) but until then, if you're enjoying the podcast please do consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823

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It was very exciting to have Brooke join us on the pod this week! We had a wide ranging chat talking about growing up in a climbing family, the Olympics, social media, maintaining a healthy balance away from climbing, Excaliber, the future of comp climbing, what it's like to compete against Janja Garnbret and much more! Big thanks to Brooke for joining us on the podcast and giving us a snapshot of some of the things that go through the mind of someone right at the cutting edge of our sport!

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We had a lovely chat with Natasha for this week's episode. She's been an outspoken advocate of strength training for years now and so there's nobody better to talk to about the dark arts of the gym gym than Natasha. She knows a thing or two about both worlds, we speak about her experience as a professional climber 20 years ago, and how an injury and a lack of good information led her into a cycle of injury which nearly ended her climbing career completely. She subsequently found strength training and power lifting and feels it has been transformative in...

Austin Hoyt joins us on the pod this week! A name that's fun to say and he's a lovely chap who was really fun to talk to. We chat a lot about the lesser trodden North-East of the USA, heading to Finland to check out Burden of Dreams, using coordination moves to avoid having to pull too hard and the incredible crop of Wads that have popped up in his local area all of a sudden. 

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Hey all!  You've had it too good with guests for the last couple of week so it's time to bring you back down to earth with a home team episode. We've got a few quintessentially CTCP rambles for your delight and delectation. Hope you enjoy :)

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