The Testpiece Podcast
A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from Good to Great.Hosted by Joshua Horsley.
#200 Gio Placci — How To Never Stop Improving, The Problem With Onsights, and Training With The World’s Strongest Climbers
Giovanni Placci keeps getting better. Despite a relatively late start to his climbing career, he’s managed to flash 9a, compete in world cups, and become a regular training partner of Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert.
Today, he and Josh sit down to discuss his unique career, his absurd training volume, and his current project, La Rage D’Adam 9b+/5.15c.
*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- The secret to Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert’s training
- Will Jakob send DNA?
<...
Good Temps #18 — Climbing In Baseball Stadiums, Ondra On Exodia V18, and The Flatanger Double Clutch
This week’s episode ran a bit shorter than usual. To make it up to you, we’re including the Patreon bonus section for free!
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Will Anglin, Allison Vest, Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
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#199 Elias Iagnemma — The World's Hardest Boulder, Proposing A New Grade, and What Comes After Sending V18?
Last November, after four years of projecting, Elias Iagnemma sent Exodia, and proposed the world’s first ever V18/9A+. The boulder has remained somewhat mysterious since then, with limited footage of it and little information on who has been trying it.
Today, in Elias’s first English podcast appearance, he answers all the questions about Exodia that the climbing world has been asking for the past year.
*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- Sending every MoonBoard benchmark
- Elias’s approach to learning new mo...
Board Talk #16 with Matt Fultz — The Benchmarking Process, The Brand New Core Board, and The “Harder” Version Of Hypnotized Minds
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Matt Fultz, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece.
SHOW NOTES
Get Training Plans From Matt - https://otgstrength.com/
*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- How to be comfortable on small box climbs as a bigger climber
- Does climbing skill...
#198 Austin Hoyt — Maintaining Progression At Your Limit, The Northeast’s V18, and What Separates The Younger Generation Of Climbers
Austin Hoyt joins us every month for Good Temps, but after yet another season of levelling up, we had to bring him on the show to spotlight him as a guest.
In this episode, Austin breaks down some of his recent sends, including Creature From The Black Lagoon V16, and tells us about his daunting V18 project.
*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- How Austin's approach to climbing has evolved with his progress
- How to set easy and complex boulders<...
Good Temps #17 — The Fastest 9b+ Send Ever, The Evolution Of Rocklands, and Is It Okay To Watch A Stranger’s Session?
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Allison Vest, Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- The world’s best easy and moderate boulders
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#197 WC Routesetter’s Roundtable — The Future of Routesetting, How Hard Are World Cups, and Fixing The Scoring System
Ryan Sewell and Mike Bockino are two of the best routesetters in the world. Together they have almost 50 years of routesetting experience for countless USA Climbing events and World Cups.
Today, they join Josh and Carlo to discuss the level of international events and the current direction of competition routesetting. They also debate Josh and Carlo's controversial opinions on the WC scoring system from Good Temps #16.
*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- Is crimping bolt holds and behind volumes cheating?
- How important is...
Board Talk #15 with Michael Rosato and Quinn Spadafora — Behind The Scenes Of Board Lords 10, 3 Months On The 16x12 TB2, and Japanese Board Lords
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato and Quinn Spadafora from Tension, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece.
*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- How you can attend Board Lords
- Was there a 3rd climb prepared for Bord Lords 10?
- Michael’s favorite Tool song
...
#196 James Pearson — Climbing For Yourself, Expanding Your Skillset, and Why You Should Start Trad Climbing
James Pearson climbs only the best lines. With a background in sketchy UK trad routes, a natural ability to send hard boulders, and an eye for aesthetics, it’s no wonder he’s managed to build a ticklist of some of the world’s most coveted ascents.
Today, he joins Josh to try to convince us to take up trad climbing and break down his long career as a professional climber.
*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- James’s experience with Exodia V18
- T...
Good Temps #16 — Austin Sends Another V16, Ondra’s ‘No Fall Day,’ and Should You Stack Pads?
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- Why Carlo sands everyday
- The benefits of training comp moves for outdoor climbers
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#195 Si Moore — Building Better Sessions, How To Send Boulders, and Why You Shouldn’t Fall In Your Training
Si Moore has been coaching climbing since before it was a real job. Today, he coaches some of the world’s best climbers, and is the founder of Vertical Ascents, a company built on the foundation of movement science.
Today, he and Josh sit down to discuss the philosophy that informs his coaching, and some of the most important lessons he teaches his clients.
*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- How to send your project
- The benefits of training beyond your limit
...
Board Talk #14 with Adam Shahar — Crushing Slopers, Bigger Boards, and Adam’s 9A Double Clutch
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Adam Shahar, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece.
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The secret to climbing on slopersAdam’s training routineEvery board’s hardest climb
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#194 Chris Deuto — No Fall Situations, Type 2 Fun, and Climbing The Southeast Ridge Of Cerro Torre
Chris Deuto climbs everything. He’s bouldered V14, he’s sent hard 5.14s, he’s the youngest person to climb the Yosemite triple crown, and, most impressively, last year he climbed Cerro Torre’s southeast ridge.
In this episode he breaks down the factors that make Cerro Torre such a difficult ascent, how he approaches the substantial danger in his climbing, and his career in climbing journalism.
*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- How do pitches get graded on big alpine ascents?
- Chri...
Good Temps #15 — Noah Wheeler’s Rampage, Janja’s 50th Gold Medal, and Why Sending Is The Most Important Part Of Climbing
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Will Anglin, Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- Should you use dog paw medicine?
- Predictions for the second half of the year
SHOW NOTES:
Annie Sanders flashes the slab boulder at the Innsbruck World Cup finals...
#193 Hazel Findlay — How To Try Hard, Flow Vs. Clutch, and The Psychology Of Execution
You probably already know Hazel Findlay for climbing some of the world’s hardest, boldest trad routes. Today, she and Josh sit down to discuss her career as a pro climber, sports psychology, and unlocking the ability to dig deep and try as hard as you can.
*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- Hazel’s approach to danger in climbing
- How Hazel balances hard projecting with being a parent
SHOW NOTES:
Trying hard is a skill. Here's how to trai...Board Talk #13 with Brian Squire — Repeating The TB2’s Hardest Climb, How To Keep Your Feet On, and Why V13 Should Be The Hardest Board Grade
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Brian Squire, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece.
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The hardest move ever on the TB2Is a Houdini Match allowed on a no matching boulder?Spray or Mirror for the TB2?Favorite angle to climb on for Boards?Favorite holds on the TB2?Boulders that...#192 Matt Samet — 39 Years Of Climbing, The Great Debate, and The Lesser Known History Of Our Sport
Matt Samet is the editor of the American Climbing Journal, and the oldest person to climb V10 on the TB2 (probably?).
In this episode, Matt and Josh discuss the history of climbing, how its ethics developed into their current form, the state of climbing media, and lessons from a very long career in climbing.
*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- The most common climbing accidents, and how to prevent them
- The best piece in the American Climbing Journal
<...
Good Temps #14 with Allison Vest — Janja Sends Bibliographie 5.15c, Katie Lamb FA’s V15, and Should Pro Climbers Have To Publicize Their Sends?
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Allison Vest, Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- What makes Sorato Anraku so strong?
- Is Dohyun Lee the world’s best board climber?
- Will we see more climbers livestream their sends?
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#191 Lincoln Knowles — Soloing Choss, What Happens When Your Bubble Bursts, and The Mentality Of A Free Soloist
You probably know Lincoln Knowles from instagram. Last year he started posting a series called, “Free soloing a harder route everyday until I fall.” Thankfully, he did not deliver on that, but the series did propel him to viral stardom and built him a career as a free soloist.
Since then he’s made the first free solo ascent of Squawstruck, the longest sport climb in America, he’s soloed as hard as 5.12b/c, and he’s taken some of the world’s best climbers with him.
Today, he joins Josh to talk about the mental p...
Board Talk #12 — The TB2 Expansion, The World’s Best Board Climber, and The Case For Full Crimping with Ben Burkhalter and Michael Rosato
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato from Tension Climbing, Ben Burkhalter, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
What happened to The Red Board?Why are spray walls disappearing?The rules of board climbingSHOW NOTES:
“How Soon Is Now” V15 board climb from Brian squire (@ittsybitsycrimpers): https://www.inst...Noah Wheeler & Michael Rosato — Finland 2025 Trip Report, Burden Of Dreams and The Sisu Project
This episode originally aired as a Patreon exclusive on December 6, 2025.
After a battle with conditions, injuries, and a heartbreaking dab, Noah Wheeler just sent Burden Of Dreams V17/9A. This week we revisit his first trip to Finland with Hamish McArthur, and Tension Climbing's Michael Rosato, where they checked out Burden, and the infamous Sisu Project.
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#190 Ben Burkhalter — Building Your Pyramid, The Importance Of Sending, and The Problem With V17
Ben Burkhalter sent nearly all his projects this season, and this week he tells us how he did it — and how you can too. In this episode we discuss the problem with high end grades, the importance of sending as many boulders as you can, and the strongest climber ever.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
Dissecting board gradesThe hardest board climbs everSHOW NOTES:
Chronic by Ben Burkhalter and Tension Climbing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WENaQBs4YWM
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Good Temps #13 — Climbing Rubber For Your Big Toe, Zach Galla Sends Another V17, and The Massive TB2 Expansion
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Link to the 'Yubisac': https://www.instagram.com/p/DXsnAs0kywT/?img_index=3&igsh=dG5vaWN3aXZxYThx
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Content (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
Developing landings and trailsWhat happened to Dreamtime
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#189 Adam Ondra — The Appeal Of Difficulty, Transferring Board Training to Rock, and Flashing 8C+/V16?
Adam Ondra is the world’s best climber. In 2017 he made the first ascent of the world’s first 9c / 5.15d, in 2025 he climbed Soudain Seul V17, and in the past few months he’s flashed 4 V15s.
This week he joins us to discuss his recent bouldering spree, his future plans, and what it takes to push climbing’s limits.
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Why Adam likes boldness and adventure in climbingAdam’s tips for falling the right wayWill Adam compete in the 2028 Olympics?The ethics of glued holds and manufa...Board Talk #11 — Repeating The TB2’s Hardest Climb, The Belay Board, and The Kilter Situation
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato from Tension Climbing, Max Zolotukhin from Sickos Social Club, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
Discontinuing the TB1How to convince a gym owner to buy a boardSHOW NOTES:
Sickos Social Club: https://www.sickossocialclub.com/podcast
Some...
#188 Beckett Hsin — V17 At 16 Years Old, Following Your Psych, and The Ultimate Proj (Getting A Driver’s License)
16 year old Beckett Hsin just climbed bouldering’s hardest grade.
In this week’s episode, he and Josh discuss the path that took him here, the boulders that inspire him, and the power of psych. Beckett also tells us about his ambition to branch out from bouldering and explore everything that climbing has to offer.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
Beckett’s experience with Lyme DiseaseTips for shorter climbersBeckett’s strength metrics
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Good Temps #12 — Another 9c, A Barefoot Send, and Grandpa Peabody's Newest Line
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Content (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
Is it ever okay to red-tag a boulder?The politics and ethics of bolting a route
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#187 Sean Bailey — America’s Hardest Climb, Building The Perfect Gym, and Searching For Something Even Harder
After 2 insane years, Sean Bailey is back on the pod.
In this episode we break down Sean's hardest ascent to date, Duality of Man (5.15d) and the philosophy behind Next Gen, the new gym helmed by Sean and Nonaka Miho.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
Is V17 or 5.15d harder?Is Duality Of Man chipped?Will Sean ever compete again?Why has no one repeated any of the proposed 15d’s?
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V...
Board Talk #10 with Sam Prior — The 2026 MoonSpray, Board Grades, and Are Board Climbers Bad Rock Climbers?
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Sam Prior and Joshua Horsley.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
The best and worst MoonBoard sets and holdsHow is Ben Moon still so strong at nearly 60 years old?What makes a benchmark a benchmark?Sam’s favorite Careless Talk episodeThe thing people don’t realize about climbing content
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#186 Tyler Nelson — Building Strong Shoulders, Doing The Right Amount Of Work, and The Problem With Prehab
One year later, Dr. Tyler Nelson is back!
Tyler is the owner and founder of Camp4 Human Performance and an expert on all things training. In this episode we discuss everything shoulders, including best exercises, rehab, what to avoid, and more.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
Are your hangs limited by finger strength or shoulder strength?Do pressing exercises really “even out” climbers?When to consider surgery
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Good Temps #11 — 16 Year Old Sends V17, Ondra Flashes 2 V15s In A Week, and The Future Of Comp Climbing
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Content (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
Deep dive on climbing shoes and their individual benefitsThe history and future of rubber technology for shoes
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#185 Dan Yagmin — The Art Of Hold Shaping, Designing The Decoy Board, and Knowing When To Quit
Daniel Yagmin Jr. is the founder of Decoy Climbing holds and a legend in the Northeast climbing scene. He joins us this week to talk about the process of hold shaping, how his background in fine arts informs his work, his love of board climbing, and where he thinks the industry is headed.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
Dan’s unconventional hold shaping tool kitThe look of the Decoy BoardThe pros and cons of every training boardDan’s favorite holds — outdoors and indoors
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Wheel Rock Board Talk #9 With Noah AND Benn Wheeler — Adam Ondra Destroys the TB2, The Most Controversial V15, and Setting For Lord Boards
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Noah Wheeler, Benn Wheeler, and Joshua Horsley.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
Noah’s biggest lesson from his injuryWhat are the defining characteristics of the British board style?How to address elitism in the climbing community and between climbing disciplinesWhen to use a standardized board over a spray wall
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#184 Connor Herson — The World’s Hardest (And Best?) Trad Climb, Proposing A New Grade, and Headlining The Mellow Tour
Connor Herson is back after an insane 3 years. Last week he proposed the world’s first 5.15 trad climb, “Drifter’s Escape,” a beautiful single pitch in Squamish that revolves around one of the best moves you could ask for on gear.
He also talks about balancing climbing professionally with completing his masters degree, lessons he’s learned from climbing with boulderers, and his philosophy of improving by climbing as much volume as he can without sacrificing difficulty.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
A look into Connor’s approach to trainingWhat makes him so strong...Good Temps #10 — The World’s New Hardest Climb, 5.15 Trad, Sweet Yosemite Granite, and Is Climbing a Sport?
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
What’s the best way to approach solo night climbing?More crazy skincare techniques from WillIs Font or Yosemite more technical?SHOW NOTES:
Duality of Man (5.15d): https://www.instagram.com/p/DT-zNfBibXI/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Dr...
#183 Adam Shahar – The World’s Hardest Move, A Year of Improvement, and Is ROTSW Really V17?
Adam Shahar is back on the pod after the best year any climber could ask for. He’s been crushing hard boulders in Bishop, and Yosemite, and just climbed his first V17, Return of the Sleepwalker. He also talks about his recent banger V13 FA in the Valley, and his single-move Northeast megaproject.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
Adam’s favorite crags in the NortheastOther projects Adam’s eyeingWhat motivates you as a climber?Why are there so many strong crimpers in the Northeast?SHOW NOTES:
“La Dolce Vita” V13 FA: https...
Board Talk #8 — The Most Brutal Board, 8B’s On Different Boards, TB2 Mirror vs Spray, ROQ Talk, and Gamification Of Boards
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato and Quinn Spadafora from Tension Climbing, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
Gamification of boards pro’s and con’s?Best ways to do Leaderboards?What separates Quinn from the actual Board Lords?SHOW NOTES:
ROQ Climbing Gym: https://www.roqclimbing.com/
8B On...
#182 Melina Costanza — A Fairy Tale Ending, 3rd Place World Championship Debut, The Underdog, Stronger After A Major Injury, and Her Outdoor Era Begins
Melina Costanza is back on Testpiece for the 3rd time! That’s because Melina is absolutely outstanding in every way: competitions, outdoors, training, and especially mindset. Melina is able to articulate all of her thoughts on these things in a way that most can’t which is why we love having her on the podcast as often as possible.
She also recently competed in her first ever World Championship where she podiumed!! Even more astounding is that she did this as her first comp back after having to sit out the entire World Cup series with a seri...
Good Temps #9 — Live Streaming Free Soloing, Everyone Does V17 In RR, Wet Rock Common Sense, and 2025’s Winners / Losers / ’26 Predictions
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
This Bonus content is SO GOOD. If you don’t have Patreon just sign up, get the 7-day Free Trial, and cancel immediately. You can’t miss this! I guarantee you will laugh out loud. -josh
2025 Top 3 Moments2025’s Biggest Winners2025’s Biggest Losers2026 Predictions & Wishes“S...#181 Tim, My Dude — Chasing Mastery, The Challenge You Actually Want, V14 Highball FA, and Tim’s Approach To Coaching
Tim, my dude, [aka Tim Kang] is back on the pod for another fun episode!
Tim has rededicated himself to the mastery of climbing after a brief stint in a normal 9-5. And boy did he come back with a bang with the amazing FA of Borrowed Time, a stunning V14 highball in Tahoe.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
Mentally dealing with big injuries. How do you do it, and how did it shift your perspective on climbing?Biggest Moments for Climbing in 2025? Predictions for 2026?Would you be willing to change...