Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.

This week, we’re heading to Sheffield in the heart of Northern England for a delightful conversation with Wendy Ward. Wendy’s journey has taken her through roles as a fashion designer, author, teacher, PHD-student and activist. You might have spotted her recently in The Guardian, where she talked about her inspiring #TakeItBack campaign — we dive into that and much more.

From daily stitching rituals to reflections on how our clothes make us feel, this episode is both thoughtful and joy-filled, with exploration of personal style, sustainability, and yes — a bit of giggling about dungarees. So, grab a cuppa...

In this week's episode, we head to Denmark for a chat with Liam Maher, something of an industry veteran with a CV that includes Timberland, Burton snowboards, Visvim, Denham the jeanmaker and Ecco shoes, among others. However, we're going to focus more on his recent book, "Menswhere - A Lost History of The Militant Guild of Rural Tailors". If that makes you curious, all will be revealed. 

You can find more information about "Menswhere" on the web here. The long-lost archive may possibly be found in the Internet Archive, although this has not been possible to verify.

In this episode, we head to Belfast to sit down with Michael and Paul, the duo behind The Bureau — a menswear store with legendary status. Founded in 1989, The Bureau began as a bold vision from two young guys who saw space for something different. Decades later, they've built a reputation for championing quality, heritage, and timeless style, while always keeping things fresh. We dive into an honest conversation about life in retail, the evolution of the shop, navigating tough times, and the iconic Bureau man.

You can find The Bureau on the web and on Instagram.

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Garmology is back! Today I'm visited by Max Leonard and Henry Iddon, creators of the book "Mountain Style - British Outdoor Clothing 1953-2000". We have a good old natter about the great British outdoors, expeditions of yore, how creativity led to development, new fabrics for new times and much much more. 

You can find the book at Isola press or at most other booksellers of merit.

Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you c...

Please note: This is the audio part of a video that I have uploaded to YouTube. You can search for "Garmology: A visit to Nigel Cabourn's studio in Newcastle" (or use the link in the show notes, or go to WellDressedDad.com to find it).

Nigel Cabourn is a British menswear designer with over 50 years in the business. He has had a continuous personal brand, initially as Crickett, later under his own name, and is known for his many and varied collaborations.  

In 2023 Nigel Cabourn was a guest on the Garmology podcast (episode #122), as a c...

Embark on a journey of unexpected turns and intriguing transformations as we sit down with today's guest, Kenneth McClure, the sole operator of Noble & Wylie, a maker of handmade shoes based in Sheffield. Kenneth's story is a testament to the twists and turns of fate, starting from a desire to create, studying fashion, and exploring various avenues before stumbling upon the captivating world of small-scale shoe-making. Join us as we unravel the fascinating narrative that bridges the gap between these two distinct points in Kenneth's journey. Tune in for a captivating conversation filled with surprising anecdotes and enlightening...

Join us on our journey to uncover hidden gems in the world of small-scale creators as we venture to Glasgow for an enlightening conversation with Gillian McNeill of LAW Design Studio. Gillian shares her journey from a budding creative spirit to establishing her own independent venture. We delve into her passion for design, her following the conventional path in fashion studies, and the pivotal moments that led her to forge her own path in the industry. Central to our discussion are the timeless qualities of design and the secret sauce that keeps customers returning for more. Tune in as...

This week's guest is David Courtney of Courtney & Co, arguably the last of the traditional button makers in the UK. I was keen to invite David for a chat about how he happened into what is a rather unusual business, requiring as it does both a plethora of machinery and some rather special source materials. Not to mention the skills and knowledge to make buttons actually happen! A challenge indeed, not least when customs officers get in touch to ask about the box of white stuff that's arrived from South America...

You can find Courtney & Co on...

In this episode, I sit down with Carolyn Denham, the visionary behind Merchant & Mills, a renowned supplier of patterns and fabrics for home sewers. Delving into Carolyn's rich background, we uncover her formative years as a passionate sewer in rural Yorkshire and the transformative impact of her fashion studies. Against the odds, Carolyn shares the pivotal moment that spurred her to establish Merchant & Mills, despite scepticism from those around her. From the iconic shop in Rye, celebrated by sewing enthusiasts worldwide, to the therapeutic power of sewing, we explore the intricacies of fabric sourcing and Carolyn's identity as a...

In this episode, we journey to Sunderland for an insightful conversation with Simon McAleese. Join us as Simon shares his journey from creating illustrations to honing an eye for sartorial intricacies. We delve into how his passion for menswear sparked the dream of launching his own brand, and navigating the highs and lows of entrepreneurship. Simon candidly discusses the challenges of balancing sustainability with brand ambitions and the nitty-gritty details of production. Plus, we explore the common struggle of grappling with impostor syndrome and questioning the path taken. Tune in as Simon unveils the raw realities behind the dream...

Get ready to dive into the dynamic world of UK manufacturing as we jet back to the UK for a lively chat with Kate Hills. Kate takes us on a whirlwind journey through her fascinating career path, from pioneering circular fashion fresh out of college to designing quirky kids' clothing. We'll follow her adventures to Italy, where she crafted designs for Levi's while indulging in pizza, and then to the bustling halls of Burberry before navigating the twists and turns of the High Street fashion scene. Hold onto your seats as we explore Kate's resilient pivot into her current...

Join us on today's podcast journey to Oslo, a city close to home for me, where we sit down with Inger Kristin Haugsevje to explore the world of vintage denim. From discussing the evolving landscape of vintage supplies to the intersection of vintage fashion trends, we delve into the industry's nuances. Unpacking the environmental impact of extensively travelled vintage garments and the value proposition behind quality secondhand clothing, we uncover the complexities of sustainability in fashion. Additionally, we uncover the irresistible allure that led Inger Kristin to establish not just one, but two, vintage emporiums, spurred on by the...

In this week's episode, we venture to Brighton to meet the luminary of a distinctive musical niche, Chap Hop. Jim Burke, known as Mr B the Gentleman Rhymer, has masterfully blended gentlemanly pursuits with banjolele-infused hip hop. As customary, we delve into his background, tracing his journey from a musically gifted youth to stumbling into the world of rap, and the startling realization that tweed may not be the most practical stage attire. Supported by his faithful supporters—the Biscuits—and fueled by an unyielding creative drive, Jim shares insights into his prolific output and newfound fascination with siren suit...

Step into the world of heritage menswear with this week's guest, Yuki Matsuda, the mastermind behind MEG Company and renowned brands Monitaly, Yuketen, Epperson Mountaineering, and Chamola. From his roots in Osaka to his early passion for vintage apparel, Yuki shares his remarkable journey of being thrust into the heart of the industry as a teenager sent to the US to source stock. Tune in as we unravel the tale of persistence, innovation, and unwavering passion that has cemented Yuki Matsuda's status as a true legend among aficionados of premium menswear.

You can find Yuki's work at...

It's no secret that podcast enthusiasts often form a connection with their favourite hosts. Granting someone access to your lugholes for hours on end, it's quite natural that over time a lopsided friendship of sort occurs. After immersing myself in Jeremy Kirkland's "Blamo!" podcast for countless hours over the years, I extended an invitation for him to join me on Garmology. Our conversation delves into Jeremy's unpredictable career journey, spanning from being in a band to music promotion to fashion entrepreneurship and celebrity styling, along with discussions on evolving tastes, the influence of social media and influencers, and the...

Buckle up for a journey through the untamed landscapes of Sussex as we sit down with Jonathan Kelly, the cheeky chap behind Sussex Tweed. Best brew a large pot as this episode is a long one. Join us as we delve into Jonathan's transformation from a burnt-out commuter to a connoisseur of exquisite tweed caps. Discover the allure of weaving yarn and the irresistible pull of dreams intertwined with the rhythmic clatter of looms.

Hold onto your seat for a thrilling road trip from the vibrant streets of Brighton to the rugged shores of Stornoway, all aboard...

This week on the podcast, we venture to Germany for an engaging conversation with Philipp Maertens from Taktonik. Taktonik specializes in crafting bags and other products from upcycled army surplus materials. Philipp shares how his fascination with creating was ignited by the discovery of shiny trousers fashioned from airmail bags. We delve into Philipp's unique approach of weaving narratives through the amalgamation of materials sourced from diverse origins, including his process of repurposing metal zips from G-suits. The discussion also explores the rich history of camouflage and the fascinating intricacies behind silk escape maps. We touch upon the power...

🎙️ Embark on a riveting journey through the tapestry of time with Sofi Thanhauser, professor and author of "Worn - A People's History of Clothing," as we unravel the stories woven into the fibres of our attire. Delve into the historical implications on society and the technological evolution of clothing, unearthing unexpected insights that might reshape your perspective. Plus, discover the intriguing world of the "Dumptique" and the art of thrifted Norwegian sweaters in Budapest – because fashion history is full of surprises!

You can find Sofi's website and info about "Worn" on the web here.

Garmolo...

Tragically Chris died in a kayaking accident just weeks after recording this episode. Hence a bonus repost in memory of Christopher and to celebrate that his monumental work, the website "Clothes on film" is back online. Se link in episode notes for the updated address.

🎬✨ Dive into the fascinating world where clothing steals the spotlight on the silver screen! In a cinematic rendezvous, I sat down with Christopher Laverty, the brilliant mind behind "Fashion in Film" and the Clothes on Film website. Together, we unravel the magic when costumes transcend mere background and take centre stage, exploring how G...

🎄✨ Join us for a festive wrap-up as Shaun, Jon, and I take a break to discuss everything from current male fashions and best buys to socks, engineer boots, and sourcing clothes from unconventional places. In this candid and lengthy conversation, we dive into weird avenues like affordability and seasonal colour analysis, sharing memorable experiences and more. It's like overhearing three guys having a conversation free of prying ears – you're invited to pry as we unravel the threads of style, sustainability, and unique fashion finds! 🗣️👕

Featuring Shaun Brown and Jon Fowler, aka @These_Rough_Notes and @HeavyJon on Instagram.

🎙️ Lend an ear to my conversation with Alice Sherwood, author of "Authenticity: Reclaiming Reality in a Counterfeit Culture," as we explore the world of counterfeit goods, unravel the secrets of brand complicity, discuss the art of storytelling in marketing, decode the incremental nature of fashion design, dissect influencer culture, and embark on a journey to uncover the truth behind the tuxedo's inventor – Yves St Laurent or Ralph Lauren?

"Authenticity: Reclaiming Reality in a Counterfeit Culture" is available from all usual sources, or direct from HarperCollins here

Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no ad...

🎙️ Brace yourselves this week as we welcome Neil Christopher, the enigmatic force behind ARN Mercantile and a sought-after figure in the clothing industry. Join us as we unravel Neil's unconventional career journey, diving into the ethics of the industry and the winds of change it desperately needs. From crafting quality clothes to minimizing environmental footprints, we expose the secrets of the trade. Neil spills the beans on the not-so-great evolution of Red Wing soles, tackles the ever-relevant fast fashion dilemma, and navigates the maze of true sustainability. 🌱👔

You can find Neil on Instagram as @arnmerc

Garmology...

🎙️ Get ready for a journey through time with Marie and Will from Old Town, the maestros of modern threads with a nod to history! Join us as we start in the '80s Blitz scene, discover the unique origins of Old Town, and explore why nostalgia takes a backseat in their creations. Find out where inspiration strikes, witness the evolution of their diverse customer base, and delve into the surprising tale of a celebrity gardener turned style icon – capturing the hearts (and wardrobes) of husbands everywhere! 

You can find Old Town on the web here and on Instagra...

🎙️ Dive into Tokyo's style revolution with author W. David Marx this week on our podcast! Uncover the fascinating tales behind "Ametora" and "Status and Culture." From the denim invasion in Japan to the ascent of Ivy fashion, we explore the intricacies of Japanese subcultures, dissect the dynamics of status, and ponder the clash between old money and new money aesthetics. Tune in for a riveting conversation that unveils the secrets of who bestows status and the challenges of boosting your own. 📚👖 #FashionRevolution #CulturalInsights #PodcastGems

You can find W David Marx online on the web at www.neomarxisme.com, Twitte...

Embark on an enthralling journey as we delve into the world of Sam Goates, a seasoned textile designer turned solitary weaver in the quaint port of Buckie, North Scotland. Sam breathes life into a vintage Hattersley loom, weaving bespoke fabrics for clients worldwide.

Join us in conversation as Sam shares tales of her time in Australia, the intricacies of non-Harris Tweed weaving, and the challenges of maintaining a vintage loom. From the joys and frustrations of employing family members to the perpetual battle against the clock, Sam unveils the realities of her craft.

Inevitably, sustainability...

This week, join us on a captivating journey to Cologne, Germany, as we sit down with Niklas Hoppe, the embodiment of vintage flair known as Vintagebursche. From a 16-year-old metalhead to a sartorial connoisseur of 1920s fashion, Niklas unfolds his fascinating evolution.

Delve into the realms of vintage recreation, role-playing, and Niklas's venture into writing a sewing book for crafting your own vintage garments. We explore the intriguing concept of "The Rules," dissecting their meaning and relevance. Plus, discover the expansive community that has rallied behind Niklas's work across various media platforms. Tune in for a riveting...

This week, we embark on a journey to Brighton to talk to Allan Brown about his profound connection with nettles. Allan's unwavering commitment to crafting a garment from inception unfolded against the backdrop of his local woodlands, where the unassuming nettle became a transformative medium.

Delicately harvesting and methodically drying the plants, the meticulous process of extracting fibres and skillfully spinning them into thread, culminating in the weaving of cloth and the creation of a dress — a testament to the resolute spirit of one man's quest.

Allan's odyssey is now encapsulated in the cinematic portrayal, "Th...

Get ready for an engaging chat with Mark Musgrave, the creative force behind the ethical micro-brand The Level Collective. They craft robust backpacks, purposeful clothing, and useful tools, blending old-world craftsmanship with a modern minimalist flair—all while championing environmental stewardship.

Mark, a self-professed product design enthusiast, is an accidental entrepreneur juggling numbers while staying true to his design ethos. Collaborating with local artisans, he transforms visions into reality. Amid this, he shares the secret to his success: establishing boundaries for a harmonious work-life balance—a personally sustainable approach to making it all work.

You can...

This week I'm heading back to Scotland for a chat with Clare Campbell of Prickly Thistle, a self-proclaimed rebel mill outside Inverness. From a background as a chartered accountant, Clare took a u-turn, or maybe a swerve, when she discovered a passion for the traditional tartan and from there decided to establish a mill, using ancient looms, with no clue at all about how to use them. We get into what it means to run an ethical and transparent business, getting off social media, going zero waste, what B Corp status means and how being a rebel can mean...

This week, we're diving headfirst into the captivating world of clothing with Rebecca Smith, author of "The Happy Dresser"! Join us on a journey as we explore the profound significance of garments in our lives, unlock the cherished memories they hold, and unravel the compelling stories woven into our very fabrics. We talk about the impact of fashion on our well-being, peek inside the treasure troves of our wardrobes, and get into the pros and cons of crafting our very own couture. Is social media a platform for judgment or perhaps a sacred diary of self-expression? Naturally, sustainability gets...

This week we head back to Accrington in Lancashire for a follow-up chat with Iain Trickett. We get to hear how an interest in vintage army clothing led to bringing a retired chap in Mexico back to the loom, how a high street brands cancelled order gets a new lease of life in Iain's ultimate jacket, how knocking on a door holding a pair of socks can lead to interesting things, and how tweed really is the technical fabric of the future. Oh, and much more.

You can find Trickett on the web at trickett-england.co.uk...

Due to illness, this week sees a rerun about my favourite cloth, Harris Tweed! This weeks episode is all about Harris Tweed, a legend among cloths and arguably the most socially significant of fabrics. My guests this week are Lorna Macaulay and Rebecca Hutton from the Hebridean Islands. Lorna is CEO of the Harris Tweed Authority, promoters and protectors of the tweed, and Rebecca Hutton, an independent single-width weaver at Taobhtuath Tweeds. We talk about the history of weaving, life on the islands, how the actual Harris Tweed came to be, the significance of the Orb symbol and the...

Today's episode takes us to Macclesfield, where Brita Hirsch is celebrating 5 years since starting The Tailoring Academy. From an inconspicuous start upstairs at the local haberdashery shop to its current incarnation with 40 students from a wide range of nationalities and ages, both in-house and online. As per usual, the route that led there isn't straightforward and Brita is happy to share the story. Get ready for a heady mix of historical, industrial, esthetical, the Great Northern Cloth, research, collaborations and a little engineering.

You can find Brita and The Tailoring Academy on Instagram as @tailoringacademy and on...

Today we head to the small island of Guernsey to learn more about the legendary wool sweater often known as the "ganzie". Rachael Laine is the owner of Le Tricoteur, maker of guernseys on Guernsey and we gain insight into what exactly makes a ganzie, the historical nature of the garment, the stories of old, and how it fits into modern times. Oh, and how Rachael happened to buy her family company without realising her family had actually started it! And also, just what are the origins of the company name?

You can find Le Tricoteur on...

Season premiere! This episode is about the epic task set by Justine Aldersey-Williams of The Wild Dyery and Northern England Fibreshed to create a pair of jeans from seed entirely in the UK. You might think this sounds simple enough, grow some fibres, dye, weave and sew, right? That's what Justine thought when starting out. Listen in to hear the twisty tale of learning many new skills, finding plenty of help, a fair few unexpected problems and what might be the most costly jeans in the UK.  

You can find Justine on Instagram as @thewilddyery and The W...

Well, it's that time of the season again, when we call it a wrap, take a break and plot our movies. As usual, I'm joined by Shaun & Jon, well-known and popular voices from previous festive specials, and we have a friendly chat about what we're wearing, current males fashions, what we're into and out to, buying and selling, socks, pervy plastic jackets, collecting stuff, what makes shoes comfy, resoling, waxed jackets and whatnots. Like overhearing three guys having a conversation free of prying ears.

Featuring Shaun Brown and Jon Fowler, aka These_Rough_Notes and HeavyJon on...

Something a little different today! Not a fresh slice of garmology for your ears, but by way of a feed swap, I'm introducing you to the podcast Check Your Thread, a podcast about sustainable sewing. The idea of a feed swap is to introduce a compatible podcast to a swapped listenership, so to speak, to help reach fresh ears.

Check Your Thread is a weekly podcast that looks at how to sew (and live) more sustainably. For those who are concerned about the climate crisis but love sewing their own clothes, it’s an opportunity to nerd ou...

Today we follow our nose and head to Oslo, Norway to chat with Rasa Maria Gundersen of Naturales Oslo about the world of scents. We enjoy a chat about her background, influences and experience, how she constructs scents, the difference between natural scents and the more commonly used synthetics, what scents mean to us on a fundamental level, and even what would be my preferred scent. And no, it's not damp wool!

You can find Naturales on the web here and on Instagram as @naturales_oslo.

Garmology is made by Nick Johannessen. There is no...

Today we head off to rural Northern Ireland to talk to Mario Sierra, third-generation weaver at the family-owned Mourne Textiles. While Ireland has long been known for its linen, Mario is concerned that after some parts of the linen industry were closed down around 30 years ago, the skills and technology to process flax are on the verge of being lost forever. This has led him to seek out remaining machinery for processing linen fibres and people that have the know-how and skills to operate them. To aid in this he is running a crowdfunding drive to start up a...

Today I bring back Niamh Carr of NemCee and Gary Newbold of English Utopia for a catch-up on how they are getting on. The idea was to have an open and frank chat about aspects of the fashion business from the point of view of small brands, what makes a brand, what quality implies and how that impacts how you work, etc. Suffice it to say, rabbit holes were found and scurried into!

You can find NeemCee on the web here and on Instagram as @_neemcee

You can find English Utopia on Instagram as @englishutopia...