Garmology - A podcast about clothes, and stuff.

This episode of Garmology features host Nick in conversation with bespoke tailor Duane MacLeod, who lives and works on the coast of Maine. 

Duane shares his unconventional journey into sewing and tailoring, beginning with a childhood in a DIY, self-sufficient family and escalating into a lifelong fascination with making things. After years of building houses, reupholstering furniture, and sewing casually, he began making garments seriously when his daughter — then studying fashion — challenged him to make his own coat. 

Following early experiments with Japanese pattern books and the online sewing community (especially the influential blog Male Patter...

In this episode, Nick sits down with Neale McDonald, founder of the small‑batch menswear label Adamant Clothing, to talk about the journey from skate‑scene style obsession to designing handmade garments in Scotland. 

They dive into craftsmanship, what “made in” really means, the frustrations of modern social media, menswear trends, and the challenges of running a tiny self‑funded brand in a big‑brand world. 

A thoughtful conversation about passion, quality, and why the humble overshirt might be the perfect garment. 
 

You can find Adamant on the web at adamantclothing.com and on Instagram...

In this wide‑ranging and deeply reflective conversation, Nick welcomes back fashion researcher and maker Wendy Ward to unpack what really happens to clothes after we’re done with them — and why the fashion industry’s language around “recycling” and “sustainability” increasingly rings hollow. They explore the murky realities of textile waste, charity shop overload, and so‑called recycling systems that often amount to exporting waste elsewhere or incinerating it. Wendy reflects on her stalled attempt to return waste garments to manufacturers, digging into the complexities of end‑of‑life clothing systems and the uncomfortable truth that only around 1% of post‑consumer texti...

In this festive roundtable episode, Nick, Jon, and Shaun gather to complain — politely — about modern shopping, resale platforms, and the strange reality of buying your own clothes back years later from a charity shop.

They talk eBay deliveries that arrive whenever they feel like it, Vinted’s takeover of second-hand culture, AI-written listings that say nothing, and heritage brands that now come with a geography quiz. Along the way, there’s boiled wool, duffle coats, social media fatigue, and the realisation that the internet has slowly turned into a badly lit shopping centre.

It’s a warm, fu...

Step into the studio with bespoke tailor Alis LeMay, whose Glasgow-based craft blends heritage techniques, natural dyes, British wool, and a deep respect for the land. In this inspiring conversation, Alis shares how chance encounters, traditional skills, and local collaborations shaped her journey from animation student to couture dressmaker — and why natural materials are at the heart of her latest project, Clò an Tìr (“cloth of the land”). 

Discover: 

What happens when a lifelong sneaker lover refuses to throw away his favourite shoes — and ends up building a full sneaker restoration business instead?

In this episode, we meet SneakerPharm’s founder, the craftsman bringing dead, battered, sun-bleached trainers back to life using skill, chemistry, and a whole lot of patience. From reverse-engineering damaged materials to perfecting the art of whitening, reglueing, repainting, and rebuilding — this is a deep dive into the world of sneaker rescue and the culture around it.

We talk about:
🧪 How he learned restoration through trial, error, and obsession
👟 Why certain...

This week on Garmology, we’re off to the wild west coast of Ireland — to the home of Donegal tweed.

Sixth-generation weaver Kieran Molloy joins us from Ardara, County Donegal, to talk about family legacy, the craft of weaving, and what it takes to keep a centuries-old tradition alive in the modern world. From looms beside the family home to a 1920s showroom on Fifth Avenue, the Molloy story is one of resilience, artistry, and an enduring love for colour and texture.

We talk about the history and future of Donegal tweed, the fight to prot...

This week on Garmology, we’re rethinking everything we thought we knew about shoes.

From Nike internships and bespoke sneakers in L.A. to orthopedic labs in Canada, shoemaker Andrew Turriff has walked a long, winding path to creating Turiff Functional Footwear — a brand built on one radical idea: that shoes should actually work for your feet.

We talk about his journey from art school to Fluevog to founding his own label, his discovery that most footwear ignores how the human foot actually moves, and how he set out to make rugged, repairable shoes that let...

This week on Garmology, we’re going on an adventure — without leaving the wardrobe.

TV adventurer, explorer, and all-round outdoorsman Ben Fogle joins Nick for a deep dive into his love of outerwear, heritage design, and the gear that’s travelled with him from Antarctica to Everest. From waxed Barbours and wool Guernseys to modern technical kit, Ben shares what really works when the temperature drops (and why some of the best expedition gear still smells like it’s been somewhere wild).

We talk about his “accidental” journey into adventure, how he ended up buying the legendar...

This week, we step inside the heart of British shoemaking. Our journey takes us to Northamptonshire, where craftsmanship and tradition run deep. Chris Woodford—6th-generation shoemaker and the man behind Crown Northampton and E. Woodford—opens the doors of his family’s factory to share stories of heritage, innovation, and the enduring art of making shoes.

We chat about what it means to carry on a legacy while steering a modern business, the surprising freedom that comes when every worker has their own key, and the obsessive pursuit of making products as good as they can possibly be—usi...

Repost: This week I'm heading back to Scotland for a chat with Clare Campbell of Prickly Thistle, a self-proclaimed rebel mill outside Inverness. From a background as a chartered accountant, Clare took a u-turn, or maybe a swerve, when she discovered a passion for the traditional tartan and from there decided to establish a mill, using ancient looms, with no clue at all about how to use them. We get into what it means to run an ethical and transparent business, getting off social media, going zero waste, what B Corp status means and how being a rebel can...

Repost: A slight diversion guest-wise today, as it's my sister Emma, a psychologist, that picks up the phone for a fly-on-the-wall style chat about topics within the Garmology sphere. We talk about the psychology of social media, why retail therapy has become a thing, peak hipster, why women get poorer clothes, the issues and pitfalls of ordering online, where the real deals can be done, our mums' taste is outed and much more. Unusually, I get to talk more in this episode!

Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are...

In this episode, I sit down with Carolyn Denham, the visionary behind Merchant & Mills, a renowned supplier of patterns and fabrics for home sewers. Delving into Carolyn's rich background, we uncover her formative years as a passionate sewer in rural Yorkshire and the transformative impact of her fashion studies. Against the odds, Carolyn shares the pivotal moment that spurred her to establish Merchant & Mills, despite scepticism from those around her. From the iconic shop in Rye, celebrated by sewing enthusiasts worldwide, to the therapeutic power of sewing, we explore the intricacies of fabric sourcing and Carolyn's identity as a...

Back by popular demand, Jon and Shaun join me once again for a meandering (but mighty enjoyable) chat covering all sorts — from smelly clothes and style dilemmas to menswear books, garment care, and even buying secondhand from celebs. Listener questions lead the way, and while solid answers are... a maybe, the banter is guaranteed. Settle in — it’s a good one.

If you liked this episode, you may like the previous festive editions!

Shaun is on Instagram as @these_rough_notes and Jon can be found as @heavyjon

Garm...

This week, we’re stepping into a cosy workshop in Cheltenham to chat with Adele Williamson, bespoke shoemaker at the legendary Tricker’s of Northampton. We explore how Adele found her way into shoemaking, the rich heritage of Tricker’s, and what makes a bespoke shoe truly special. From the surprising number of machines involved to the passionate customers who appreciate the craft — it’s a fascinating look into a proud British tradition.

You can find Adele on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/b_spoke_/

More info about the Trickers bespoke service can be found here...

This week, we’re heading to Sheffield in the heart of Northern England for a delightful conversation with Wendy Ward. Wendy’s journey has taken her through roles as a fashion designer, author, teacher, PHD-student and activist. You might have spotted her recently in The Guardian, where she talked about her inspiring #TakeItBack campaign — we dive into that and much more.

From daily stitching rituals to reflections on how our clothes make us feel, this episode is both thoughtful and joy-filled, with exploration of personal style, sustainability, and yes — a bit of giggling about dungarees. So, grab a cuppa...

In this week's episode, we head to Denmark for a chat with Liam Maher, something of an industry veteran with a CV that includes Timberland, Burton snowboards, Visvim, Denham the jeanmaker and Ecco shoes, among others. However, we're going to focus more on his recent book, "Menswhere - A Lost History of The Militant Guild of Rural Tailors". If that makes you curious, all will be revealed. 

You can find more information about "Menswhere" on the web here. The long-lost archive may possibly be found in the Internet Archive, although this has not been possible to verify.

In this episode, we head to Belfast to sit down with Michael and Paul, the duo behind The Bureau — a menswear store with legendary status. Founded in 1989, The Bureau began as a bold vision from two young guys who saw space for something different. Decades later, they've built a reputation for championing quality, heritage, and timeless style, while always keeping things fresh. We dive into an honest conversation about life in retail, the evolution of the shop, navigating tough times, and the iconic Bureau man.

You can find The Bureau on the web and on Instagram.

...

Garmology is back! Today I'm visited by Max Leonard and Henry Iddon, creators of the book "Mountain Style - British Outdoor Clothing 1953-2000". We have a good old natter about the great British outdoors, expeditions of yore, how creativity led to development, new fabrics for new times and much much more. 

You can find the book at Isola press or at most other booksellers of merit.

Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no advertising or sponsorship, but you are welcome to support the podcast via my Patreon at patreon.com/garmology or you c...

Please note: This is the audio part of a video that I have uploaded to YouTube. You can search for "Garmology: A visit to Nigel Cabourn's studio in Newcastle" (or use the link in the show notes, or go to WellDressedDad.com to find it).

Nigel Cabourn is a British menswear designer with over 50 years in the business. He has had a continuous personal brand, initially as Crickett, later under his own name, and is known for his many and varied collaborations.  

In 2023 Nigel Cabourn was a guest on the Garmology podcast (episode #122), as a c...

Embark on a journey of unexpected turns and intriguing transformations as we sit down with today's guest, Kenneth McClure, the sole operator of Noble & Wylie, a maker of handmade shoes based in Sheffield. Kenneth's story is a testament to the twists and turns of fate, starting from a desire to create, studying fashion, and exploring various avenues before stumbling upon the captivating world of small-scale shoe-making. Join us as we unravel the fascinating narrative that bridges the gap between these two distinct points in Kenneth's journey. Tune in for a captivating conversation filled with surprising anecdotes and enlightening...

Join us on our journey to uncover hidden gems in the world of small-scale creators as we venture to Glasgow for an enlightening conversation with Gillian McNeill of LAW Design Studio. Gillian shares her journey from a budding creative spirit to establishing her own independent venture. We delve into her passion for design, her following the conventional path in fashion studies, and the pivotal moments that led her to forge her own path in the industry. Central to our discussion are the timeless qualities of design and the secret sauce that keeps customers returning for more. Tune in as...

This week's guest is David Courtney of Courtney & Co, arguably the last of the traditional button makers in the UK. I was keen to invite David for a chat about how he happened into what is a rather unusual business, requiring as it does both a plethora of machinery and some rather special source materials. Not to mention the skills and knowledge to make buttons actually happen! A challenge indeed, not least when customs officers get in touch to ask about the box of white stuff that's arrived from South America...

You can find Courtney & Co on...

In this episode, I sit down with Carolyn Denham, the visionary behind Merchant & Mills, a renowned supplier of patterns and fabrics for home sewers. Delving into Carolyn's rich background, we uncover her formative years as a passionate sewer in rural Yorkshire and the transformative impact of her fashion studies. Against the odds, Carolyn shares the pivotal moment that spurred her to establish Merchant & Mills, despite scepticism from those around her. From the iconic shop in Rye, celebrated by sewing enthusiasts worldwide, to the therapeutic power of sewing, we explore the intricacies of fabric sourcing and Carolyn's identity as a...

In this episode, we journey to Sunderland for an insightful conversation with Simon McAleese. Join us as Simon shares his journey from creating illustrations to honing an eye for sartorial intricacies. We delve into how his passion for menswear sparked the dream of launching his own brand, and navigating the highs and lows of entrepreneurship. Simon candidly discusses the challenges of balancing sustainability with brand ambitions and the nitty-gritty details of production. Plus, we explore the common struggle of grappling with impostor syndrome and questioning the path taken. Tune in as Simon unveils the raw realities behind the dream...

Get ready to dive into the dynamic world of UK manufacturing as we jet back to the UK for a lively chat with Kate Hills. Kate takes us on a whirlwind journey through her fascinating career path, from pioneering circular fashion fresh out of college to designing quirky kids' clothing. We'll follow her adventures to Italy, where she crafted designs for Levi's while indulging in pizza, and then to the bustling halls of Burberry before navigating the twists and turns of the High Street fashion scene. Hold onto your seats as we explore Kate's resilient pivot into her current...

Join us on today's podcast journey to Oslo, a city close to home for me, where we sit down with Inger Kristin Haugsevje to explore the world of vintage denim. From discussing the evolving landscape of vintage supplies to the intersection of vintage fashion trends, we delve into the industry's nuances. Unpacking the environmental impact of extensively travelled vintage garments and the value proposition behind quality secondhand clothing, we uncover the complexities of sustainability in fashion. Additionally, we uncover the irresistible allure that led Inger Kristin to establish not just one, but two, vintage emporiums, spurred on by the...

In this week's episode, we venture to Brighton to meet the luminary of a distinctive musical niche, Chap Hop. Jim Burke, known as Mr B the Gentleman Rhymer, has masterfully blended gentlemanly pursuits with banjolele-infused hip hop. As customary, we delve into his background, tracing his journey from a musically gifted youth to stumbling into the world of rap, and the startling realization that tweed may not be the most practical stage attire. Supported by his faithful supporters—the Biscuits—and fueled by an unyielding creative drive, Jim shares insights into his prolific output and newfound fascination with siren suit...

Step into the world of heritage menswear with this week's guest, Yuki Matsuda, the mastermind behind MEG Company and renowned brands Monitaly, Yuketen, Epperson Mountaineering, and Chamola. From his roots in Osaka to his early passion for vintage apparel, Yuki shares his remarkable journey of being thrust into the heart of the industry as a teenager sent to the US to source stock. Tune in as we unravel the tale of persistence, innovation, and unwavering passion that has cemented Yuki Matsuda's status as a true legend among aficionados of premium menswear.

You can find Yuki's work at...

It's no secret that podcast enthusiasts often form a connection with their favourite hosts. Granting someone access to your lugholes for hours on end, it's quite natural that over time a lopsided friendship of sort occurs. After immersing myself in Jeremy Kirkland's "Blamo!" podcast for countless hours over the years, I extended an invitation for him to join me on Garmology. Our conversation delves into Jeremy's unpredictable career journey, spanning from being in a band to music promotion to fashion entrepreneurship and celebrity styling, along with discussions on evolving tastes, the influence of social media and influencers, and the...

Buckle up for a journey through the untamed landscapes of Sussex as we sit down with Jonathan Kelly, the cheeky chap behind Sussex Tweed. Best brew a large pot as this episode is a long one. Join us as we delve into Jonathan's transformation from a burnt-out commuter to a connoisseur of exquisite tweed caps. Discover the allure of weaving yarn and the irresistible pull of dreams intertwined with the rhythmic clatter of looms.

Hold onto your seat for a thrilling road trip from the vibrant streets of Brighton to the rugged shores of Stornoway, all aboard...

This week on the podcast, we venture to Germany for an engaging conversation with Philipp Maertens from Taktonik. Taktonik specializes in crafting bags and other products from upcycled army surplus materials. Philipp shares how his fascination with creating was ignited by the discovery of shiny trousers fashioned from airmail bags. We delve into Philipp's unique approach of weaving narratives through the amalgamation of materials sourced from diverse origins, including his process of repurposing metal zips from G-suits. The discussion also explores the rich history of camouflage and the fascinating intricacies behind silk escape maps. We touch upon the power...

🎙️ Embark on a riveting journey through the tapestry of time with Sofi Thanhauser, professor and author of "Worn - A People's History of Clothing," as we unravel the stories woven into the fibres of our attire. Delve into the historical implications on society and the technological evolution of clothing, unearthing unexpected insights that might reshape your perspective. Plus, discover the intriguing world of the "Dumptique" and the art of thrifted Norwegian sweaters in Budapest – because fashion history is full of surprises!

You can find Sofi's website and info about "Worn" on the web here.

Garmolo...

Tragically Chris died in a kayaking accident just weeks after recording this episode. Hence a bonus repost in memory of Christopher and to celebrate that his monumental work, the website "Clothes on film" is back online. Se link in episode notes for the updated address.

🎬✨ Dive into the fascinating world where clothing steals the spotlight on the silver screen! In a cinematic rendezvous, I sat down with Christopher Laverty, the brilliant mind behind "Fashion in Film" and the Clothes on Film website. Together, we unravel the magic when costumes transcend mere background and take centre stage, exploring how G...

🎄✨ Join us for a festive wrap-up as Shaun, Jon, and I take a break to discuss everything from current male fashions and best buys to socks, engineer boots, and sourcing clothes from unconventional places. In this candid and lengthy conversation, we dive into weird avenues like affordability and seasonal colour analysis, sharing memorable experiences and more. It's like overhearing three guys having a conversation free of prying ears – you're invited to pry as we unravel the threads of style, sustainability, and unique fashion finds! 🗣️👕

Featuring Shaun Brown and Jon Fowler, aka @These_Rough_Notes and @HeavyJon on Instagram.

🎙️ Lend an ear to my conversation with Alice Sherwood, author of "Authenticity: Reclaiming Reality in a Counterfeit Culture," as we explore the world of counterfeit goods, unravel the secrets of brand complicity, discuss the art of storytelling in marketing, decode the incremental nature of fashion design, dissect influencer culture, and embark on a journey to uncover the truth behind the tuxedo's inventor – Yves St Laurent or Ralph Lauren?

"Authenticity: Reclaiming Reality in a Counterfeit Culture" is available from all usual sources, or direct from HarperCollins here

Garmology is by Nick Johannessen. There is no ad...

🎙️ Brace yourselves this week as we welcome Neil Christopher, the enigmatic force behind ARN Mercantile and a sought-after figure in the clothing industry. Join us as we unravel Neil's unconventional career journey, diving into the ethics of the industry and the winds of change it desperately needs. From crafting quality clothes to minimizing environmental footprints, we expose the secrets of the trade. Neil spills the beans on the not-so-great evolution of Red Wing soles, tackles the ever-relevant fast fashion dilemma, and navigates the maze of true sustainability. 🌱👔

You can find Neil on Instagram as @arnmerc

Garmology...

🎙️ Get ready for a journey through time with Marie and Will from Old Town, the maestros of modern threads with a nod to history! Join us as we start in the '80s Blitz scene, discover the unique origins of Old Town, and explore why nostalgia takes a backseat in their creations. Find out where inspiration strikes, witness the evolution of their diverse customer base, and delve into the surprising tale of a celebrity gardener turned style icon – capturing the hearts (and wardrobes) of husbands everywhere! 

You can find Old Town on the web here and on Instagra...

🎙️ Dive into Tokyo's style revolution with author W. David Marx this week on our podcast! Uncover the fascinating tales behind "Ametora" and "Status and Culture." From the denim invasion in Japan to the ascent of Ivy fashion, we explore the intricacies of Japanese subcultures, dissect the dynamics of status, and ponder the clash between old money and new money aesthetics. Tune in for a riveting conversation that unveils the secrets of who bestows status and the challenges of boosting your own. 📚👖 #FashionRevolution #CulturalInsights #PodcastGems

You can find W David Marx online on the web at www.neomarxisme.com, Twitte...

Embark on an enthralling journey as we delve into the world of Sam Goates, a seasoned textile designer turned solitary weaver in the quaint port of Buckie, North Scotland. Sam breathes life into a vintage Hattersley loom, weaving bespoke fabrics for clients worldwide.

Join us in conversation as Sam shares tales of her time in Australia, the intricacies of non-Harris Tweed weaving, and the challenges of maintaining a vintage loom. From the joys and frustrations of employing family members to the perpetual battle against the clock, Sam unveils the realities of her craft.

Inevitably, sustainability...